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1 x 1/4 drive ratchet,
1 x 1/4 drive extension bit,
1 x 1/4 drive 10mm socket.
1 x rubber mat (optional),
1 x cig lighter or similar,
1 x rod, A length of Mig welding wire.
1 x roll of electrical tape,
1 x rag,
1 x cleaning solution.
1 x 10mm drill bit and drill
****CLICKING ON THE IMAGES ON A PC WILL ENLARGE FOR BETTER VIEWING, ON A SMART PHONE JUST EXPAND THE PIC****
****Mk 1 NA pics to be added asap****
Open up the kit and you should have two light strips, 1 with a short length of wire and one with a long length, 2 x double sided sticky strips , 2 x heat shrink solder connections, 1 x piece of heat shrink, a fuse holder with a 10mm fuse in and a switch all connected to the longest piece of wire.
I have tried to make this kit as simple as possible, but there is a little bit of DIY the person wanting to fit one of these will need to carry out.
I have made it with the minimum of attention needed but if you can pick up a spanner/screwdriver you will be fine as I am aware people are not keen on electrics, this is easy to fit and satisfying to use when needed. The guide below although is a simple enough kit does need to be read before starting to fit ,even more so when connecting to the fuse box and does need to be followed.
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Pop the bonnet and secure safe on the bonnet prop...
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Get your 10mm drill bit and drill and locate the bracket in front of the fuse box as shown in the pictures and drill the hole for the switch to be fitted to. On the NB you have a valve underneath so please be careful and put some kind of rag to catch the metal splinters...
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Once the hole is drilled, use your 1/4 drive ratchet,extension and 10mm socket and remove the 10mm head bolt that holds the bracket that the switch it being fitted to, also remove the 2 x 10mm nuts that hold the fuse box in place and the 2 x 10mm head bolts that hold the back of the wing ( see pic) in place and put them safe....
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We are now ready to start fitting the kit....
Pick up the switch and unscrew and remove the cap cover and rubber washer, then push the switch under the bracket and through the hole in the bracket,re add the rubber washer and screw the cover cap back on tight....
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Get hold of the fuse holder, open it up and REMOVE the 10 amp fuse while we connect everything up, and put it somewhere safe to be re added later...
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*****Now I highly recommend disconnecting the battery for this next bit as we connect up to the fuse box positive live terminal,the other option is to place a good thick rubber mat over the wing etc as a protection against the ratchet etc arcing out to the earth of the Roadster. Please do not take the chance without doing either options as it will throw you across the drive if shorted out...*****
To make this next bit a bit easier unclip the plastic loom clip by just pulling it apart, now Pull the fuse box up inwards into the engine bay and twist so you can see the door on the side of the fuse box, pop this open to revel the 10 mm head bolt that secures the live terminal wire. We need to remove that bolt with the 1/4 drive ratchet, extension and 10 mm socket. Once removed thread the red ring connector on the new fuse holder under the fuse box bracket and up to the roadsters fuse box. Put the ring on the 10 mm head bolt and re tighten everything back up with the new ring for the lights fuse and the OE ring also to the Roadsters fuse box nice and tight and re close the door nice and safe again ( you can remove the mat or re connect the battery now)....
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Thread/feed your cable up through the hole under the inner wing (see pics) by lifting the wing up slightly and behind the wing ,around the bonnet hinge and leave for later...
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Start bolting everything back up, re add the 2 x 10 mm bolts for the fuse box case and tighten up, re add the 2 x 10 mm wing bolts and tighten up and the earth ring from the switch to the 10 mm head bolt that holds the bracket that the switch is on back tight again.....
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Using your cleaning product and rag, wipe the area that the light units will be stuck to. Get the double sided sponge tape and peel one side off and stick it to the backs of the light units, then stick the light unit with the shortest length of cable to the drivers side and the longest cable to the passenger side with the cables facing towards the drivers side....
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Use a rod for pulling/feeding the wires through, a good length of mig welding wire is perfect, in this case I am using a thin S/S welding rod...
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Patience is needed on this bit. I have done a good few so have it down to a fine art and no need for the swear jar any more...
Do not try and pull through in one hit ( see pics), using you electrical tape ,tape the cable to the rod and start to pull it through ,"gently does it" as you may get resistance in some places and will need to dislodge by pulling it back a little to free it and carry on pulling through....
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Once through that section feed your rod over to the other light unit...
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Remove the cable from the rod and leave it hanging there for the time being while we feed the rod down towards the hinge on the drivers side and bring it out through the hole in the bottom....
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Tape the cable to the rod again and pull it through ,leave the cable taped to the rod and feed over towards the light unit....
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Once they are all threaded/pulled/feed through it is time to join them all together, twist together the two light wires, black to black and red to red....
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Slide the black heat shrink tube on to the cable from the fuse box...
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Use the 2 x heat shrink solder connections and slide the thin end on to the red and black cables...
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Twist the wires from the fuse box to the light wires, red to red and black to black, and slide the heat shrink solder connections over the twisted wires....
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***Please be careful with the next bit, this is the easiest method I feel to use for a number of reasons, once these are in place ,they seal and join the wires together and still remains thin enough to be tucked away and hidden in the frame, making the kits with plug connections would mean that you would not be able to thread/feed them through so would need to be run on the frame to be seen, which for me will look terrible and tacky.***
Using your chosen heat tool, lighter etc and start to apply heat evenly and warm the heat shrink side of the solder connections do not get to close to burn them. Once shrunk then apply the heat evenly to the centre where the solder ring, it will melt and shrink within the heat shrink to join the wires, the process will not take long. Once that is done apply the same process to the other connection and let them cool down ....
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Then slide the black heat shrink over the heat solder connections and apply the heat evenly again and tuck the cables behind the bonnet frame out of view nice and neat....
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Replace the 10 amp fuse back in the fuse holder, tuck that away safe and try the switch, all should be lovely and bright....
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And that's it. All ready for when you have that moment when you need it so you have no need to struggle, please remember to switch it off before closing the bonnet.
As always , any questions , please don't be afraid to ask , its what Menders is here for.
M-m
