What you put in, you'll get back ten fold
***** THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO THE SITE AND HELPING YOU,OTHERWISE IT CLOSES AND ALL THIS ON LINE GARAGE IS GONE FOR GOOD*****
Greetings and welcome to menders, this site was built for every owner that might need her to help keep those bills low and also keep them on the road where they belong, she is run by very passionate enthusiasts owners for passionate enthusiastic owners, see her like a on line garage, there is a lot of tech stuff hopefully explained for everyone to use, if there is something you cannot get your head around, or you feel that there is a strong walk through guide missing that needs creating by one of us or from yourselves, please let us know, we are also on false book and youtube, which as short tech vids to help, and again if you feel there is a vid that would help please get it touch.
the menders is free, but like everything there is a cost to run things and bills( we are just happy its not a heating cost), so if we have saved you hundreds, please throw a small donation in the pot so we can keep on going to carry on helping others in the same way .
*** we are currently looking for a sponsor for this year, so if you have the passion and can see this sites worth to everyone , please get in touch and step forward to help***
And thank heavens that we are now on the way back up the brighter ,warmer longer days, "come on summer", and lets see those project builds.
M-m
Greetings and welcome to menders, this site was built for every owner that might need her to help keep those bills low and also keep them on the road where they belong, she is run by very passionate enthusiasts owners for passionate enthusiastic owners, see her like a on line garage, there is a lot of tech stuff hopefully explained for everyone to use, if there is something you cannot get your head around, or you feel that there is a strong walk through guide missing that needs creating by one of us or from yourselves, please let us know, we are also on false book and youtube, which as short tech vids to help, and again if you feel there is a vid that would help please get it touch.
the menders is free, but like everything there is a cost to run things and bills( we are just happy its not a heating cost), so if we have saved you hundreds, please throw a small donation in the pot so we can keep on going to carry on helping others in the same way .
*** we are currently looking for a sponsor for this year, so if you have the passion and can see this sites worth to everyone , please get in touch and step forward to help***
And thank heavens that we are now on the way back up the brighter ,warmer longer days, "come on summer", and lets see those project builds.
M-m
1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Took the box of steel bits to the platers this lunchtime, looking forward to getting it back
Fixed the front sidelight / indicators, the sidelight bulb holders had both snapped to bits and someone had kindly superglued one side back in
Did as per Waynes guide here:
viewtopic.php?t=6580
Two layers of adhesive loaded heatshrink and all good. I used some Turtle Wax glass polish that'd been kicking round for ages and it's made them look great
Fixed the front sidelight / indicators, the sidelight bulb holders had both snapped to bits and someone had kindly superglued one side back in
Did as per Waynes guide here:
viewtopic.php?t=6580
Two layers of adhesive loaded heatshrink and all good. I used some Turtle Wax glass polish that'd been kicking round for ages and it's made them look great
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15069
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
- Contact:
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Got the second lot of bits back from the platers, lots of shiny things
Including the mythical, heard of but never before witnessed - non-rusted wing mirror fasteners
Now just got a 1000 piece jigsaw to do
Including the mythical, heard of but never before witnessed - non-rusted wing mirror fasteners
Now just got a 1000 piece jigsaw to do
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Got the front subframe, tank, handbrake cables, rear subframe and steering rack back in today, messed around with the fuel and brake lines too. The doors / wings / bumper are back on with the final plated fasteners
I don't know why but this amuses me with it's "goldness"
I don't know why but this amuses me with it's "goldness"
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15069
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
- Contact:
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Had a day faffing around working out where parts go and what's broken or missing
When I got the mudflaps from the car being broken I took off the old clips, they'd all sheared and were pretty much junk
Pressed out the old nuts and sheared bits
Used a heatgun to heat up new M5 nuts on the end of a bit of bar then pushed them in when they were hot enough melting a new hole
They come out alright, saved about £20, did 8 all together
Used non standard screws, had some wide shallow head ones in the lucky dip box that fit well
Got braces on and in the right place for probably the first time since it left Japan
When I got the mudflaps from the car being broken I took off the old clips, they'd all sheared and were pretty much junk
Pressed out the old nuts and sheared bits
Used a heatgun to heat up new M5 nuts on the end of a bit of bar then pushed them in when they were hot enough melting a new hole
They come out alright, saved about £20, did 8 all together
Used non standard screws, had some wide shallow head ones in the lucky dip box that fit well
Got braces on and in the right place for probably the first time since it left Japan
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Got the door glass and electric window in this evening, cleaned out the tracks and greased / lubricated the cable. The door rubbers with the exception of the doow to window seal were in good condition so they went back on fine, i need to buy a pair of the door to window seals at some point.
Run it up and down off a 12v battery and it's really smooth - and fast!
The lock mechanism was full of 25 years of filth and caked grease. A lot of it is a pressed part so was hard to clean. I used engine degreaser in a tub with a paintbrush to get in all the bits, then took it inside and cleaned it in hot water with Lidl all purpose cleaner before rinsing in hot water. Once it's dried overnight i'll grease it up and hopefully get it back on tomorrow evening
Run it up and down off a 12v battery and it's really smooth - and fast!
The lock mechanism was full of 25 years of filth and caked grease. A lot of it is a pressed part so was hard to clean. I used engine degreaser in a tub with a paintbrush to get in all the bits, then took it inside and cleaned it in hot water with Lidl all purpose cleaner before rinsing in hot water. Once it's dried overnight i'll grease it up and hopefully get it back on tomorrow evening
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Done the rear hubs, one had a bad rear bearing and thought both should be done, it wasn't too hard - I used my friends hydraulic press to put it back together
Taking apart, removed old rear crud seals
Supporting the carrier, used a hammer to knock out the old hub
Leaves half the inner race on the hub shaft
Remove circlip
I forgot to take a picture of this, but supported the hub face down and hit out the old bearing, no longer retained by the circlip
Then used big chisel to carefully knock off the old shield, moving it around. Both came out completely undamaged
Disassembled carrier
Used a knackered woodworking chisel with a good point to open up a gap between the inner race and the hub so could get the pullers behind it
Degreased, wire mopped and alcohol clean before using metal prep and three coats of POR15. The bushes were in very good condition so i've left them in, if they need replacing at a later date they're not too hard to get out. Pressed on the new NB big brake heat shields (I can sense Waynes disagreement as I write this ).
Need to put the new rear crud seals in before the assembling but otherwise the read hubs are done.
The boss for the original Momo wheel was seized solid, no amount of jiggling, rocking and pulling was shifting it so made a Momo boss puller
Worked good, came off with a "pop" after a surprising amount of tightening!
Rebuilt the front suspension, lots of copper grease on everything. Replaced the dust boots on the upper and lower ball joints, they hadn't gone but did look aged. Repleced the track rod ends, they were OK but the threads were sketchy and after considering it felt it wasn't worth not doing. Big brake heat shields (sorry again Wayne).
Going to reuse the existing front hubs, there's nothing wrong with them and if they do go they're very easy to change.
Machined a pair of spacers for the roll bar which the harnesses attach to. It always bugged me that you're supposed to use a stack of the standard spacers on top of the tower - I'm sure it works but it doesn't feel right. I think the previous owner had used too many in any case - it used to have zero clearence to the hardtop. Machined these from stainless, 11.5mm bore to give nice clearance on the 7/16th UNF standard top bolt
No gap underneath bolt obviously not tight yet tho
Roll bar repainted in nice gloss black. Plumbed in the fuel tank and vent line
Taking apart, removed old rear crud seals
Supporting the carrier, used a hammer to knock out the old hub
Leaves half the inner race on the hub shaft
Remove circlip
I forgot to take a picture of this, but supported the hub face down and hit out the old bearing, no longer retained by the circlip
Then used big chisel to carefully knock off the old shield, moving it around. Both came out completely undamaged
Disassembled carrier
Used a knackered woodworking chisel with a good point to open up a gap between the inner race and the hub so could get the pullers behind it
Degreased, wire mopped and alcohol clean before using metal prep and three coats of POR15. The bushes were in very good condition so i've left them in, if they need replacing at a later date they're not too hard to get out. Pressed on the new NB big brake heat shields (I can sense Waynes disagreement as I write this ).
Need to put the new rear crud seals in before the assembling but otherwise the read hubs are done.
The boss for the original Momo wheel was seized solid, no amount of jiggling, rocking and pulling was shifting it so made a Momo boss puller
Worked good, came off with a "pop" after a surprising amount of tightening!
Rebuilt the front suspension, lots of copper grease on everything. Replaced the dust boots on the upper and lower ball joints, they hadn't gone but did look aged. Repleced the track rod ends, they were OK but the threads were sketchy and after considering it felt it wasn't worth not doing. Big brake heat shields (sorry again Wayne).
Going to reuse the existing front hubs, there's nothing wrong with them and if they do go they're very easy to change.
Machined a pair of spacers for the roll bar which the harnesses attach to. It always bugged me that you're supposed to use a stack of the standard spacers on top of the tower - I'm sure it works but it doesn't feel right. I think the previous owner had used too many in any case - it used to have zero clearence to the hardtop. Machined these from stainless, 11.5mm bore to give nice clearance on the 7/16th UNF standard top bolt
No gap underneath bolt obviously not tight yet tho
Roll bar repainted in nice gloss black. Plumbed in the fuel tank and vent line
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Done a bit over the past couple of weeks, finished the hubs with the crud seal at the back
Reassembled both corners, haven't done it tight because i'll swing the hubs down to put the half shafts in when the diffs rebuilt
Reassembled the light mechanisms. I think one of the motors had a problem but i'll have a look at it when the electrical system is working
Fuel tank and all the bits, somewhere in here is the second filler hose clip - hopefully it'll turn up some time...
Filler cap, gave it a good polish in the hole before assembly
Decided to put the heater back in. I was a bit unsure about whether I wanted it but can always take out again afterwards. No AC, it was buggered and 3/4's missing and personally I don't think it suits MX5's
The foam was rancid and mostly crumbling to dust, scraped and cleaned it off and used contact adhesive to affix the lowest density stuff i could find. It's closed cell not open but should be vastly better than what was or wasn't there before
In place (i think, i might have moved some of these round)
I polished the pipes. No idea why.
New outer seals made from two layers of 12mm open cell foam strip and connected up to the blower using a non-AC bypass pipe
For the money it cost (about £15 all in) I think it's definitely worth rebuilding the heater. The amount of filth that comes out is mental.
The electric window switch was miles too short, the previous owner had wired it onto the tombstone - I think there might have been another cable in between previously. I cut and soldered in an extension, two layers of heat shrink, fits alright now
Seats back in for hopefully the last time. Cleaned them up with a hoover and wash down and then a load of spray dye, the almost white fading is much better. Would have preferred a jet black finish but it's a lot better than it was. Carpet back in and tucked under the rollbar, that was a feat and a half!!
Reassembled both corners, haven't done it tight because i'll swing the hubs down to put the half shafts in when the diffs rebuilt
Reassembled the light mechanisms. I think one of the motors had a problem but i'll have a look at it when the electrical system is working
Fuel tank and all the bits, somewhere in here is the second filler hose clip - hopefully it'll turn up some time...
Filler cap, gave it a good polish in the hole before assembly
Decided to put the heater back in. I was a bit unsure about whether I wanted it but can always take out again afterwards. No AC, it was buggered and 3/4's missing and personally I don't think it suits MX5's
The foam was rancid and mostly crumbling to dust, scraped and cleaned it off and used contact adhesive to affix the lowest density stuff i could find. It's closed cell not open but should be vastly better than what was or wasn't there before
In place (i think, i might have moved some of these round)
I polished the pipes. No idea why.
New outer seals made from two layers of 12mm open cell foam strip and connected up to the blower using a non-AC bypass pipe
For the money it cost (about £15 all in) I think it's definitely worth rebuilding the heater. The amount of filth that comes out is mental.
The electric window switch was miles too short, the previous owner had wired it onto the tombstone - I think there might have been another cable in between previously. I cut and soldered in an extension, two layers of heat shrink, fits alright now
Seats back in for hopefully the last time. Cleaned them up with a hoover and wash down and then a load of spray dye, the almost white fading is much better. Would have preferred a jet black finish but it's a lot better than it was. Carpet back in and tucked under the rollbar, that was a feat and a half!!
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15069
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
- Contact:
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
- GlennyGills
- Moderator
- Posts: 629
- Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2012 8:13 pm
- Location: Reading
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
looking good
'96 Gleneagles MeisterR Coilovers - engine bling stainless mx5parts full exhaust
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Garage and skills envy over here on the coast.
1993 1.6 Eunos Roadster (gone)
1998 UK Mk 2 1.6 (gone)
2003 1.8 SVT Sport (shouldnt have sold it)
1991 1.6 Eunos Roadster with a bit of bling.
Life is a journey, best travelled topless in an MX5!!
1998 UK Mk 2 1.6 (gone)
2003 1.8 SVT Sport (shouldnt have sold it)
1991 1.6 Eunos Roadster with a bit of bling.
Life is a journey, best travelled topless in an MX5!!
- GlennyGills
- Moderator
- Posts: 629
- Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2012 8:13 pm
- Location: Reading
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
blackyb wrote:Garage and skills envy over here on the coast.
Coast envy here in the town
'96 Gleneagles MeisterR Coilovers - engine bling stainless mx5parts full exhaust
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Did a bit on the electrics today, connected up a spare battery and most things seem to work - which is nice
I repainted the wipers in the week and rebuilt the motor (cleaned out old grease, new grease, repainted motor casing and the bracket thing)
Got the roof back on earlier on - followed Waynes guide for replacing the edge strip with a new one from autolink
Lights, pop up motors, indicators etc work
High level boot light isn't working, not sure, bulb might have gone
Checked the backlash on the diff in four places, most were a shade under 4 thou, the worst was a shade over 4 thou. It's in spec so I'm calling it good.
I considered rebuilding it but I really don't think there's much point. I might do in the future but for now it's just getting new half-shaft seals.
Since I'd bought it in preparedness I measured the tower splay, 7.302andabit which would be fine if it were new, although not really relevant at this point. Got the big 8" mic on eBay for £30 - bargain
I need to decide what I'm doing with the engine, it's on the stand so it'd make sense to strip it back and have rehoned, fit new parts etc but I really need to start work on the other car soon before the mot runs out in under two months
I repainted the wipers in the week and rebuilt the motor (cleaned out old grease, new grease, repainted motor casing and the bracket thing)
Got the roof back on earlier on - followed Waynes guide for replacing the edge strip with a new one from autolink
Lights, pop up motors, indicators etc work
High level boot light isn't working, not sure, bulb might have gone
Checked the backlash on the diff in four places, most were a shade under 4 thou, the worst was a shade over 4 thou. It's in spec so I'm calling it good.
I considered rebuilding it but I really don't think there's much point. I might do in the future but for now it's just getting new half-shaft seals.
Since I'd bought it in preparedness I measured the tower splay, 7.302andabit which would be fine if it were new, although not really relevant at this point. Got the big 8" mic on eBay for £30 - bargain
I need to decide what I'm doing with the engine, it's on the stand so it'd make sense to strip it back and have rehoned, fit new parts etc but I really need to start work on the other car soon before the mot runs out in under two months
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Finished putting the diff together, haven't put the half shaft seals in yet will do that and get it on the car next week hopefully
Started on the 6 speed. Bought it secondhand - reportedly 68k miles, no idea but it seems to be believable.
Took the shifter to bits, the lower boot was shot. Might as well replace the lower nylon cup - i had a spare one from buying the wrong thing years ago
Polished the pivot and end ball - no idea why. I got some Farecla G10 and i've been getting carried away...
Machined a plug for the propshaft to help with cleaning, keep all the gunk out of there
I tried using this stuff - it works alright, not sure what's in it but it smells like the main ingredient is hydrochloric acid. Certainly strips anything zinc plated, good job it's getting painted
Degrease, ali-clean, water, ali-clean, water
When it'd dried painted it with several coats of high temp silver. The paint self etches but being mostly acid the ali-clean had etched it pretty well to start with
Will put the shifter and the sensors back together tomorrow
Started on the 6 speed. Bought it secondhand - reportedly 68k miles, no idea but it seems to be believable.
Took the shifter to bits, the lower boot was shot. Might as well replace the lower nylon cup - i had a spare one from buying the wrong thing years ago
Polished the pivot and end ball - no idea why. I got some Farecla G10 and i've been getting carried away...
Machined a plug for the propshaft to help with cleaning, keep all the gunk out of there
I tried using this stuff - it works alright, not sure what's in it but it smells like the main ingredient is hydrochloric acid. Certainly strips anything zinc plated, good job it's getting painted
Degrease, ali-clean, water, ali-clean, water
When it'd dried painted it with several coats of high temp silver. The paint self etches but being mostly acid the ali-clean had etched it pretty well to start with
Will put the shifter and the sensors back together tomorrow
Return to “Members Mx-5/ Roadsters”
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests