What you put in, you'll get back ten fold
***** THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO THE SITE AND HELPING YOU,OTHERWISE IT CLOSES AND ALL THIS ON LINE GARAGE IS GONE FOR GOOD*****
Greetings and welcome to menders, this site was built for every owner that might need her to help keep those bills low and also keep them on the road where they belong, she is run by very passionate enthusiasts owners for passionate enthusiastic owners, see her like a on line garage, there is a lot of tech stuff hopefully explained for everyone to use, if there is something you cannot get your head around, or you feel that there is a strong walk through guide missing that needs creating by one of us or from yourselves, please let us know, we are also on false book and youtube, which as short tech vids to help, and again if you feel there is a vid that would help please get it touch.
the menders is free, but like everything there is a cost to run things and bills( we are just happy its not a heating cost), so if we have saved you hundreds, please throw a small donation in the pot so we can keep on going to carry on helping others in the same way .
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And thank heavens that we are now on the way back up the brighter ,warmer longer days, "come on summer", and lets see those project builds.
M-m
Greetings and welcome to menders, this site was built for every owner that might need her to help keep those bills low and also keep them on the road where they belong, she is run by very passionate enthusiasts owners for passionate enthusiastic owners, see her like a on line garage, there is a lot of tech stuff hopefully explained for everyone to use, if there is something you cannot get your head around, or you feel that there is a strong walk through guide missing that needs creating by one of us or from yourselves, please let us know, we are also on false book and youtube, which as short tech vids to help, and again if you feel there is a vid that would help please get it touch.
the menders is free, but like everything there is a cost to run things and bills( we are just happy its not a heating cost), so if we have saved you hundreds, please throw a small donation in the pot so we can keep on going to carry on helping others in the same way .
*** we are currently looking for a sponsor for this year, so if you have the passion and can see this sites worth to everyone , please get in touch and step forward to help***
And thank heavens that we are now on the way back up the brighter ,warmer longer days, "come on summer", and lets see those project builds.
M-m
1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
- graymattor
- Regular
- Posts: 98
- Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2016 4:02 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
What an absolutely amazing thread, the content and level of detail is absolutely outstanding!! to say this started off as a track car (I hope that's changed now lol) the work you have done has blown my mind!!! and to think I only stumbled across your thread by searching for 'G-Limited' how glad I have... .
oh how I have build thread envy lol!! i have a J-Ltd build thread, car hasn't changed since the last post, I have an S-Ltd project (no build thread), that hasn't changed in 4 years most of its in the loft and now someone has given me a G-Limited (they just want it out their garage, I've not even seen it, so no idea what condition it's in but sounds like it needs welding and paint (don't they all) just a text out the blue from my plumber, its coming next week but it will have to live outside for a bit) god knows what i will do with this one, hopefully not the same as the other 2 and become abandoned!!!
I have now subscribed and look forward to more content, keep up the amazing job you are doing
oh how I have build thread envy lol!! i have a J-Ltd build thread, car hasn't changed since the last post, I have an S-Ltd project (no build thread), that hasn't changed in 4 years most of its in the loft and now someone has given me a G-Limited (they just want it out their garage, I've not even seen it, so no idea what condition it's in but sounds like it needs welding and paint (don't they all) just a text out the blue from my plumber, its coming next week but it will have to live outside for a bit) god knows what i will do with this one, hopefully not the same as the other 2 and become abandoned!!!
I have now subscribed and look forward to more content, keep up the amazing job you are doing
Last edited by graymattor on Fri May 21, 2021 8:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
S-Ltd - Ongoing project, far from standard!
J-Ltd - (Mrs's) - New project, staying standard (ish)
J-Ltd - (Mrs's) - New project, staying standard (ish)
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Wish someone would give me G Ltd. Then I could try to emulate the standard of this build thread,
Yeah ok, maybe not quite up to this standard.
Yeah ok, maybe not quite up to this standard.
1993 1.6 Eunos Roadster (gone)
1998 UK Mk 2 1.6 (gone)
2003 1.8 SVT Sport (shouldnt have sold it)
1991 1.6 Eunos Roadster with a bit of bling.
Life is a journey, best travelled topless in an MX5!!
1998 UK Mk 2 1.6 (gone)
2003 1.8 SVT Sport (shouldnt have sold it)
1991 1.6 Eunos Roadster with a bit of bling.
Life is a journey, best travelled topless in an MX5!!
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Thanks guys, i'm genuinely flattered I'm literally making this up, i have no idea what I'm doing - and you're right it's probably not a track car anymore but it will certainly see tracks. Project car i think
Had a good week, got a couple of afternoons on the car - and it's running! The guys at Motorsport Electronics were great, via a phonecall and remote desktop connection Stuart at ME loaded up a configuration for a VVT in a MK1 loom and after a few mins of him doing stuff it literally started first crank. It must have been over an hour in total after that but he got the idle somewhere near right and VVT is working. I've started it a few times since and it's always first crank, amazing for a base config.
Headers have started to go a goldy color now
I had some alloys refurbished, Team Dynamics Pro Race 2's (15", 7J, ET30) - this will be the normal road set, some basic but decent tyres - i went with Kumho HS51's in the end, more because I wanted to get it all sorted in an afternoon (I know that's a terrible reason... )
The other set of wheels are also Pro Race 2's but I'll be getting something more sticky on them
This is a really annoy thing - I got these track rod ends from MX5 parts a while ago. WTF is this! It's quite bad really because some people will just either not fit the pin or put it in doing nothing:
I didn't fancy drilling a new locking pin hole so I turned a 5.5mm spacer from stainless
Apart from that I got a new horn button, it fits fine but I'm not sure if the wheel looks a bit incomplete
The original was like this but the rubber behind has perished so the middle bit just falls off
I think i might stick the original on somehow, with a blue button - obvs!
Had a good week, got a couple of afternoons on the car - and it's running! The guys at Motorsport Electronics were great, via a phonecall and remote desktop connection Stuart at ME loaded up a configuration for a VVT in a MK1 loom and after a few mins of him doing stuff it literally started first crank. It must have been over an hour in total after that but he got the idle somewhere near right and VVT is working. I've started it a few times since and it's always first crank, amazing for a base config.
Headers have started to go a goldy color now
I had some alloys refurbished, Team Dynamics Pro Race 2's (15", 7J, ET30) - this will be the normal road set, some basic but decent tyres - i went with Kumho HS51's in the end, more because I wanted to get it all sorted in an afternoon (I know that's a terrible reason... )
The other set of wheels are also Pro Race 2's but I'll be getting something more sticky on them
This is a really annoy thing - I got these track rod ends from MX5 parts a while ago. WTF is this! It's quite bad really because some people will just either not fit the pin or put it in doing nothing:
I didn't fancy drilling a new locking pin hole so I turned a 5.5mm spacer from stainless
Apart from that I got a new horn button, it fits fine but I'm not sure if the wheel looks a bit incomplete
The original was like this but the rubber behind has perished so the middle bit just falls off
I think i might stick the original on somehow, with a blue button - obvs!
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Great work. And amazing thread. You deserve a Beer or two J
1996 Mk1 Classic Red 1.6 sorted
1995 Mk 1 White 1.6 in need of TLC
2015 Mk1 1.8 Exocet Mk1 on steroids
1995 Mk 1 White 1.6 in need of TLC
2015 Mk1 1.8 Exocet Mk1 on steroids
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Thanks John!
I made some progress with the fog lights and door cards this week. Eunos imports don't have a rear fog, I've no idea how this thing passed many MOT's with no credible working rear fog when the previous owner(s) had it road legal. I put one in, there's a lot of mixed information on the internet but this is how I did it - an i think it meets the rules.
I modified the O/S rear light cluster to use the second reverse light as a fog, I replaced the clear bulb with a red one. The bulb (P21W) is fed from the sidelight circuit with a relay, it was a random Omron relay I had and i made a little cage for it so it's bolted to the rear cluster. The relay has a flyback diode on the coil - again I just used a random power Schottky (3A, 70V i think..)
I didn't want to modify the original loom so up front I modified the Y-splitter lead which separates the HRW and front fogs. I added two additional pins to the pass through so that everything is passed to the HRW connector making it have all the connections as the original, then T'd off the dash light +12V, ground and front fog trigger line onto the fat 6-pin that would normally switch UK fogs onto my UK fog switch which is now switching the rear fog. The blue wire in the picture is to the coil on the rear cluster.
I ran a wire (in my case blue) to the rear cluster. The fitted bits just plug in without messing with anything original.
The tell tale for UK MOT regs is a red diode (best looking i could find in my stash) and it's wired between the output of the switch and ground on the instrument lights with a 1.1k resistor in series
I need to get a bezel thingy for the front fog / HRW switch thingy but otherwise the fogs are done now. Light up nice at night and the rear fog can only be activated when the lights are on, which i think is the rules
And the light is very bright, it looks white in the photo but it's very red in real life
For the door cards I didn't have much to start with and a lot of it was broken. Made some new backing bits from hardboard, gave them two coats of acrylic sealer and rivited the clip things onto them from what was left of the old cards. Funny, the rivet gun i used was likely used to make the aero on James Hunts Hesketh car.
The top plastic bits were pretty smashed, especially the passenger side and I wanted to remove the speaker holes, I swiss cheese and fibre-glassed them with plastic filler to smooth in.
New panels and fixed top bits
I used scrim backed vinyl and then some nice blue stuff for the cards themselves. The top part is a nightmare to make it curve round right, the panels are fairly easy tho. Used spray contact adhesive and then staples on the panels as well
Drivers door
Passenger door
Looks nice and tidy, need to make the mount things for the pull straps. Looks a lot nicer than before
I made some progress with the fog lights and door cards this week. Eunos imports don't have a rear fog, I've no idea how this thing passed many MOT's with no credible working rear fog when the previous owner(s) had it road legal. I put one in, there's a lot of mixed information on the internet but this is how I did it - an i think it meets the rules.
I modified the O/S rear light cluster to use the second reverse light as a fog, I replaced the clear bulb with a red one. The bulb (P21W) is fed from the sidelight circuit with a relay, it was a random Omron relay I had and i made a little cage for it so it's bolted to the rear cluster. The relay has a flyback diode on the coil - again I just used a random power Schottky (3A, 70V i think..)
I didn't want to modify the original loom so up front I modified the Y-splitter lead which separates the HRW and front fogs. I added two additional pins to the pass through so that everything is passed to the HRW connector making it have all the connections as the original, then T'd off the dash light +12V, ground and front fog trigger line onto the fat 6-pin that would normally switch UK fogs onto my UK fog switch which is now switching the rear fog. The blue wire in the picture is to the coil on the rear cluster.
I ran a wire (in my case blue) to the rear cluster. The fitted bits just plug in without messing with anything original.
The tell tale for UK MOT regs is a red diode (best looking i could find in my stash) and it's wired between the output of the switch and ground on the instrument lights with a 1.1k resistor in series
I need to get a bezel thingy for the front fog / HRW switch thingy but otherwise the fogs are done now. Light up nice at night and the rear fog can only be activated when the lights are on, which i think is the rules
And the light is very bright, it looks white in the photo but it's very red in real life
For the door cards I didn't have much to start with and a lot of it was broken. Made some new backing bits from hardboard, gave them two coats of acrylic sealer and rivited the clip things onto them from what was left of the old cards. Funny, the rivet gun i used was likely used to make the aero on James Hunts Hesketh car.
The top plastic bits were pretty smashed, especially the passenger side and I wanted to remove the speaker holes, I swiss cheese and fibre-glassed them with plastic filler to smooth in.
New panels and fixed top bits
I used scrim backed vinyl and then some nice blue stuff for the cards themselves. The top part is a nightmare to make it curve round right, the panels are fairly easy tho. Used spray contact adhesive and then staples on the panels as well
Drivers door
Passenger door
Looks nice and tidy, need to make the mount things for the pull straps. Looks a lot nicer than before
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Nice work as usual. I agree the top door caps are a PITA to cover. I had to use some steam on mine to stretch the vinyl. I noticed a series of small holes on the backside of the capping at the difficult area. I assumed Mazda inject glue through the holes to hold the vinyl in place. Keep up the good work.
1996 Mk1 Classic Red 1.6 sorted
1995 Mk 1 White 1.6 in need of TLC
2015 Mk1 1.8 Exocet Mk1 on steroids
1995 Mk 1 White 1.6 in need of TLC
2015 Mk1 1.8 Exocet Mk1 on steroids
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Thanks John, they are a sod and I did struggle. The first one I couldn't get it right so ended up pulling it off and starting again, finish is alright. It's not perfect but compared to what was there it's a massive improvement.
Finished the door pulls and put the plates on yesterday. The pulls are some simple TRS straps, machined a pair of alu bits to make it fit back to the hard points
Screw head looks a bit out of place but it's a wierd self tapper and I didn't have anything better. Might make a cap or something in future.
Put the plates on. Went for 13" x 6.5" front and back and they fit quite nicely. Jass offset brackets - nice piece of kit, bit fiddly to install.
Finished the door pulls and put the plates on yesterday. The pulls are some simple TRS straps, machined a pair of alu bits to make it fit back to the hard points
Screw head looks a bit out of place but it's a wierd self tapper and I didn't have anything better. Might make a cap or something in future.
Put the plates on. Went for 13" x 6.5" front and back and they fit quite nicely. Jass offset brackets - nice piece of kit, bit fiddly to install.
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Made a thing for the harnesses, I wanted them all to be on eyes so they can be unclipped when they start to annoy me. The roll bar is an early TR lane and i think it was made for bolt on harness fasteners and the cross piece stops any eye being bolted in one of the holes so made an adapter from stainless to have a 7/16 UNF threaded hole at 90 degrees.
Put in a pair of 3" TRS 5-point harnesses
Apart from that, put a sh*t ton of Dinitrol into the chassis. Used Dinitrol ML first with the long wand thing up the cavities / rear arches / frame rails / sils / lower wishbones. When that had dried put on another load of Dinitrol 3125 HS which is the thicker gunge stuff. Made a right mess on me and the floor but should be a good thing
Fitted the Jass hardtop mounts and the universal brake stopper, they're nice things but god they're fiddly to install especially the brake stopper
Put in a pair of 3" TRS 5-point harnesses
Apart from that, put a sh*t ton of Dinitrol into the chassis. Used Dinitrol ML first with the long wand thing up the cavities / rear arches / frame rails / sils / lower wishbones. When that had dried put on another load of Dinitrol 3125 HS which is the thicker gunge stuff. Made a right mess on me and the floor but should be a good thing
Fitted the Jass hardtop mounts and the universal brake stopper, they're nice things but god they're fiddly to install especially the brake stopper
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
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- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
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Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Lumphammer wrote: Made a right mess on me and the floor but should be a good thing...... I am doing two this weekend at the same time, in and out, wait to you see that picture...
Fitted the Jass hardtop mounts and the universal brake stopper, they're nice things but god they're fiddly to install especially the brake stopper
It must be those sausage fingers
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Finished the interior, fitted the battery and wheel arch liners today
When i get round to it where the radio should go i'll put a WBO2 and voltmeter. Will have to work out how to get a signal from the ME442 to drive the O2, it might have to be on CAN - dunno.. problem for another day
Fitted the front arch liners, got these from a nice bloke on the internet at the start of first lockdown - he held on to them until we were allowed to travel to get them which was very good of him
I'm aiming to be ready for an MOT around the end of next week, be good to get it on the road. First time in 11 years!
When i get round to it where the radio should go i'll put a WBO2 and voltmeter. Will have to work out how to get a signal from the ME442 to drive the O2, it might have to be on CAN - dunno.. problem for another day
Fitted the front arch liners, got these from a nice bloke on the internet at the start of first lockdown - he held on to them until we were allowed to travel to get them which was very good of him
I'm aiming to be ready for an MOT around the end of next week, be good to get it on the road. First time in 11 years!
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Any news on an MOT?
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
As usual Nate, i underestimated how much I had left to do and then got distracted by other things - maybe end of this week!
I had setup the steering rack previously but in the car i felt it had a bit too much slop so adjusted it, then lots of faffing around with various bungs I found i'd forgotten etc. Put some heat reflective stuff on the passenger side where the downpipe runs. Hopefully stop it getting quite so hot
Came to refit the bonnet prop - no joy. With the VVT manifold and the position of the crossover tube it fouls by about 2". Could have made a new prop but bought a pair of gas struts instead - they look neater and do give a bit better access.
Put the washer jets on, new pair of jets and then some generic tubing
Squirty!
Put in a new outer glass weather seal for the hardtop. This is supposed to be installed with the glass but I didn't unbond / rebond the window so I cheated and cut off the inner lip that wraps around the glass and stuck it in with Tiger seal
Worked lovely
And loads and loads of polishing. 3M 2000 grit ultrafine, 3M Trizact, Farecla G3, Farecla G10 and then wax. I was very cautious of going through the clear coat so it still has a lot of orange peel but to be honest I'm well chuffed - considering i've never painted stuff before and it was done with rattle cans I'm very happy
Fitted new door to glass weatherseals. Passenger window was going very slowly for no reason so i put a tiny bit of silicon grease in the rubber channel which made it much better
Made a locking tool for the rear hub nuts. I can't remember the torque on those nuts but it's like a billion or something - at least I've got a 1m bar to hold on to now
Last thing to do is get the wheels on and make some alignment boxes to sit the car on to help doing wheel alignment. And put the wipers back on!
I had setup the steering rack previously but in the car i felt it had a bit too much slop so adjusted it, then lots of faffing around with various bungs I found i'd forgotten etc. Put some heat reflective stuff on the passenger side where the downpipe runs. Hopefully stop it getting quite so hot
Came to refit the bonnet prop - no joy. With the VVT manifold and the position of the crossover tube it fouls by about 2". Could have made a new prop but bought a pair of gas struts instead - they look neater and do give a bit better access.
Put the washer jets on, new pair of jets and then some generic tubing
Squirty!
Put in a new outer glass weather seal for the hardtop. This is supposed to be installed with the glass but I didn't unbond / rebond the window so I cheated and cut off the inner lip that wraps around the glass and stuck it in with Tiger seal
Worked lovely
And loads and loads of polishing. 3M 2000 grit ultrafine, 3M Trizact, Farecla G3, Farecla G10 and then wax. I was very cautious of going through the clear coat so it still has a lot of orange peel but to be honest I'm well chuffed - considering i've never painted stuff before and it was done with rattle cans I'm very happy
Fitted new door to glass weatherseals. Passenger window was going very slowly for no reason so i put a tiny bit of silicon grease in the rubber channel which made it much better
Made a locking tool for the rear hub nuts. I can't remember the torque on those nuts but it's like a billion or something - at least I've got a 1m bar to hold on to now
Last thing to do is get the wheels on and make some alignment boxes to sit the car on to help doing wheel alignment. And put the wipers back on!
- Mazda Mender
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- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
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Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Now I really feel let down Tom....with all that attension to detail and you have not fitted blue washer jet hose to match the coolant hoses...
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- Washer_routing.jpg (454.19 KiB) Viewed 7491 times
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
- Lumphammer
- Moderator
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:57 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
Found a lot of unexpected / forgotten jobs.
The exhaust manifold was foulding on the tunnel when it got hot (bad design, no excuse..) so had to press a small fold into it. Seems to clear OK now but time will tell
After seeing one of Waynes builds I forgot there was supposed to be a pair of arch liners on the rear, got a replacement pair from Autolink
Put the wheels back on to run it up to speed on axle stands to check it was all working OK
Speedo wasn't working - on closer inspection the cable drive was turning well but nothing on the dial, turns out the female square spigot on the speedo unit was decidedly round Fortunately I had a spare UK cluster I bought to get the analog oil gauge from so swapped them round. Unfortunately this means I now have a miles odometer instead of km, made the decision that it was better to have the correct digits with the wrong units, so set the replacement odometer to have the same value as the broken JDM one
Needed to do alignment so made myself some boxes to sit the car on, they're very strong and have a flat plywood top
For caster and camber I used some lidl special tools and they worked pretty well. The car sits on a piece of thin hardboard which has 3 OHP transparencies underneath, it allows the wheels to move very freely without scrubbing
Caster was set to 5 degrees (+0.3 - -2.2 degrees O/S and 0.0 - -2.5 degrees N/S with 15 degree out / 15 degree in of wheel movement), camber was set to 1.5 degrees front and 2.0 degrees rear (read values 1.4 degrees O/S front, 1.5 degrees N/S front, 2.1 degrees O/S rear, 2.3 degrees N/S rear).
For toe i locked the wheel with a bit of wood
String lines, well black cotton... and a lot of iteration
Toe was 0 front, 0.5mm toe in rear (about 4mins) per side. All these value are best efforts, i expect i have some error but it is hopefully acceptable. If it drives like herby I'll take it somewhere and get them to fix it
Tomorrow i'll do a final check all things are tight underneath and I haven't done something daft like forgotten to tighten the subframe nuts or something, going to book an MOT for the end of the week when the weather is better
The exhaust manifold was foulding on the tunnel when it got hot (bad design, no excuse..) so had to press a small fold into it. Seems to clear OK now but time will tell
After seeing one of Waynes builds I forgot there was supposed to be a pair of arch liners on the rear, got a replacement pair from Autolink
Put the wheels back on to run it up to speed on axle stands to check it was all working OK
Speedo wasn't working - on closer inspection the cable drive was turning well but nothing on the dial, turns out the female square spigot on the speedo unit was decidedly round Fortunately I had a spare UK cluster I bought to get the analog oil gauge from so swapped them round. Unfortunately this means I now have a miles odometer instead of km, made the decision that it was better to have the correct digits with the wrong units, so set the replacement odometer to have the same value as the broken JDM one
Needed to do alignment so made myself some boxes to sit the car on, they're very strong and have a flat plywood top
For caster and camber I used some lidl special tools and they worked pretty well. The car sits on a piece of thin hardboard which has 3 OHP transparencies underneath, it allows the wheels to move very freely without scrubbing
Caster was set to 5 degrees (+0.3 - -2.2 degrees O/S and 0.0 - -2.5 degrees N/S with 15 degree out / 15 degree in of wheel movement), camber was set to 1.5 degrees front and 2.0 degrees rear (read values 1.4 degrees O/S front, 1.5 degrees N/S front, 2.1 degrees O/S rear, 2.3 degrees N/S rear).
For toe i locked the wheel with a bit of wood
String lines, well black cotton... and a lot of iteration
Toe was 0 front, 0.5mm toe in rear (about 4mins) per side. All these value are best efforts, i expect i have some error but it is hopefully acceptable. If it drives like herby I'll take it somewhere and get them to fix it
Tomorrow i'll do a final check all things are tight underneath and I haven't done something daft like forgotten to tighten the subframe nuts or something, going to book an MOT for the end of the week when the weather is better
- graymattor
- Regular
- Posts: 98
- Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2016 4:02 pm
Re: 1995 G-Limited ***RESTORATION***Rebuild
- amazing stuff, what a car and what detail, hopefully the MOT goes well!! i cannot seen for a second why it wouldnt!!!!!!!!
S-Ltd - Ongoing project, far from standard!
J-Ltd - (Mrs's) - New project, staying standard (ish)
J-Ltd - (Mrs's) - New project, staying standard (ish)
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