So earlier in the year I took my car to get a 'full' rust and underseal treatment.
The garage I took the car to came recommended, had treated other MX-5s before and showed them on their site.
As it transpires the job was not very complete. Parts were not removed so underseal was missing behind some sections and known areas of rust were not treated.
In short not much was done other than rust treating and undersealing the underside of the car. Saved me a dirty job but was expensive for what it was. Expensive lesson learned!
M-m has documented my, and others, experiences on the link below so I am not going to repeat that here.
http://www.mazdamenders.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=7521
Since then, following the amazing guidance that Mazda Mender has detailed on that thread and directly (thanks so much M-m), I have set to putting right what was missed.
This is not complete yet and I will post updates as I progress.
I have got the car on stands, removed the wheel liners, pulled back the front arches (in fact I ended up removing them because its easy and I'll get a better job done) and cleaned everything up.
The drivers side wing will need replacing.
Found one.
I inspected the rear sills by removing the rubber grommet behind the rear wheel liner.
Was pleased to see that there was not much rust. Initially I thought it looked bad however that turned out to be very dry dirt (I expect the drain hoses were blocked at some point).
I cleaned out the sills using a host attached to a handheld hoover.
I then injected an entire can of Dintrol RC900 into the sills via the holes behind the rear arch liner and the B pillars (as seen in M-m's guide linked above).
I left this for a week to dry.
While it was drying I undersealed everything that was missed by the garage.
I then set to injecting cavity wax again following M-m's guide.
This is how the rear sills look now, of course I have cavity waxed the box sections etc. as seen in the guide.
I have cleaned up the rust on the back of the passenger side wing and treated it with rust converter.
Next is to give this an undercoat and then underseal the back of the wing.
Drivers side will be put back as is until the spring when I will get the new wing painted and fitted.
That is where I am at currently. Other than finishing the underseal etc. I will be changing the fuel filter while the car us on stands
Next spring I am planning on getting the chassis rails cut out and repair sections welded in.
I inspected them earlier this year and although the rust is not bad yet on the outside they are blown on the inside so need replacing.
What you put in, you'll get back ten fold
***** THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO THE SITE AND HELPING YOU,OTHERWISE IT CLOSES AND ALL THIS ON LINE GARAGE IS GONE FOR GOOD*****
Greetings and welcome to menders, this site was built for every owner that might need her to help keep those bills low and also keep them on the road where they belong, she is run by very passionate enthusiasts owners for passionate enthusiastic owners, see her like a on line garage, there is a lot of tech stuff hopefully explained for everyone to use, if there is something you cannot get your head around, or you feel that there is a strong walk through guide missing that needs creating by one of us or from yourselves, please let us know, we are also on false book and youtube, which as short tech vids to help, and again if you feel there is a vid that would help please get it touch.
the menders is free, but like everything there is a cost to run things and bills( we are just happy its not a heating cost), so if we have saved you hundreds, please throw a small donation in the pot so we can keep on going to carry on helping others in the same way .
*** we are currently looking for a sponsor for this year, so if you have the passion and can see this sites worth to everyone , please get in touch and step forward to help***
And thank heavens that we are now on the way back up the brighter ,warmer longer days, "come on summer", and lets see those project builds.
M-m
Greetings and welcome to menders, this site was built for every owner that might need her to help keep those bills low and also keep them on the road where they belong, she is run by very passionate enthusiasts owners for passionate enthusiastic owners, see her like a on line garage, there is a lot of tech stuff hopefully explained for everyone to use, if there is something you cannot get your head around, or you feel that there is a strong walk through guide missing that needs creating by one of us or from yourselves, please let us know, we are also on false book and youtube, which as short tech vids to help, and again if you feel there is a vid that would help please get it touch.
the menders is free, but like everything there is a cost to run things and bills( we are just happy its not a heating cost), so if we have saved you hundreds, please throw a small donation in the pot so we can keep on going to carry on helping others in the same way .
*** we are currently looking for a sponsor for this year, so if you have the passion and can see this sites worth to everyone , please get in touch and step forward to help***
And thank heavens that we are now on the way back up the brighter ,warmer longer days, "come on summer", and lets see those project builds.
M-m
MK2 10th Anniversary - 1999
2019 Part 4
Last edited by njonesn on Thu Nov 07, 2019 10:07 pm, edited 3 times in total.
10th Anniversary Edition (1999 NB)
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15069
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
- Contact:
Re: MK2 10th Anniversary - 1999
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
Re: MK2 10th Anniversary - 1999
Rear bumper removed and two coats of underseal applied behind it. Once that’s gone off I can put the bumper back on.
Removed the muffler heat shield and undersealed the boot section hidden by the heat shield. Will clean up the shield before replacing.
Stripped the front ready for a clean and underseal.
Could get a proper look at my chassis rails too. As I already knew they are past their best, seen a lot worse though, and need cutting out (happening in the spring).
I think there is only one bit left now that I want to remove and underseal behind, mid-section heat shield.
Removed the muffler heat shield and undersealed the boot section hidden by the heat shield. Will clean up the shield before replacing.
Stripped the front ready for a clean and underseal.
Could get a proper look at my chassis rails too. As I already knew they are past their best, seen a lot worse though, and need cutting out (happening in the spring).
I think there is only one bit left now that I want to remove and underseal behind, mid-section heat shield.
10th Anniversary Edition (1999 NB)
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15069
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
- Contact:
Re: MK2 10th Anniversary - 1999
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
Re: MK2 10th Anniversary - 1999
Front now cleaned and undersealed. No rust really to speak of.
Two coats given all over and the inside of the front of the chassis rails coated too. The remainder of the rails will be cut out and replaced next year.
Started to reassemble too. Have some bolts and clips on order as I didn't want to re-use some of the 20 year old items.
All bolts given a light dab of copper grease too.
The front might stay off for a few more weeks now as time is short.
Really happy with the results.
Both heat shields still to finish off, either cleaning off and painting the existing ones or replacing with better condition 2nd hand ones, also cleaned up (if I can find any) and the fuel filter to change.
Two coats given all over and the inside of the front of the chassis rails coated too. The remainder of the rails will be cut out and replaced next year.
Started to reassemble too. Have some bolts and clips on order as I didn't want to re-use some of the 20 year old items.
All bolts given a light dab of copper grease too.
The front might stay off for a few more weeks now as time is short.
Really happy with the results.
Both heat shields still to finish off, either cleaning off and painting the existing ones or replacing with better condition 2nd hand ones, also cleaned up (if I can find any) and the fuel filter to change.
10th Anniversary Edition (1999 NB)
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15069
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
- Contact:
Re: MK2 10th Anniversary - 1999
Looking great buddy...
M-m
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
Re: MK2 10th Anniversary - 1999
All back together, over spray cleaned up and the car fully washed.
A few old bolts that I had overlooked to replace rather than using the ones I took out but I consider this done.
Some small jobs to do before the spring; fix the door kick plates, replace a faulty actuator in the drivers door, clean up and respray both heat shields and change the fuel filter.
I'll continue to update this thread as I work on the car.
A few old bolts that I had overlooked to replace rather than using the ones I took out but I consider this done.
Some small jobs to do before the spring; fix the door kick plates, replace a faulty actuator in the drivers door, clean up and respray both heat shields and change the fuel filter.
I'll continue to update this thread as I work on the car.
10th Anniversary Edition (1999 NB)
- Mazda Mender
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15069
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
- Location: Pie land, in the glen of Wiganshire
- Contact:
Re: MK2 10th Anniversary - 1999
Looking good buddy.
M-m
M-m
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 .
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 soul red ..f/ build
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ..
MK1 1.8 ,white import.. (Ashleighs)
MK1 1.6 yellow J ltd import.f/build
MK 1 1.8 black Tokyo Ltd..f/build
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
Re: MK2 10th Anniversary - 1999
Fuel filter changed.
Really easy job however do yourself a favour and spend ÂŁ5 on the clip release tool before starting the job.
You can try to release the 'internal' clips using other methods but you are likely to break them and/or cause other damage. For ÂŁ5 it really is a no brainer.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06WRT18WT
M-m has a guide for the filter change.
viewtopic.php?f=157&t=2445
This is for the MK1 (M-m is working on a guide for the MK2) but its essentially the same process other than you can't pinch off the fuel lines on the MK2 as they are rigid not rubber. On the MK2 you will need to disconnect the fuel pump with the engine running and let it stall. This removed most of the pressure from the lines. You can do this under the steering wheel column behind the fuse box. On mine it was the GREEN relay connector; a bit of a fiddle as its clipped in on three sides.
Not the best picture but this might help guide you to the right connector.
I also cleaned up a set of heat shields I acquired as the ones on my 10AE were covered in underseal and I was not entirely comfortable with this being subjected to the heat of the cat and backbox. I also wanted to underseal behind the heat shields so they had to come off anyway.
The replacements had a little underseal on them too.
Cleaned them off and removed as much surface rust as I could.
Then treated with some rust killer (which is why they look black/dirty again.
Finally sprayed them with VHT silver before installing back on the car.
No one will ever see them....but I know they are there....I know.
Really easy job however do yourself a favour and spend ÂŁ5 on the clip release tool before starting the job.
You can try to release the 'internal' clips using other methods but you are likely to break them and/or cause other damage. For ÂŁ5 it really is a no brainer.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06WRT18WT
M-m has a guide for the filter change.
viewtopic.php?f=157&t=2445
This is for the MK1 (M-m is working on a guide for the MK2) but its essentially the same process other than you can't pinch off the fuel lines on the MK2 as they are rigid not rubber. On the MK2 you will need to disconnect the fuel pump with the engine running and let it stall. This removed most of the pressure from the lines. You can do this under the steering wheel column behind the fuse box. On mine it was the GREEN relay connector; a bit of a fiddle as its clipped in on three sides.
Not the best picture but this might help guide you to the right connector.
I also cleaned up a set of heat shields I acquired as the ones on my 10AE were covered in underseal and I was not entirely comfortable with this being subjected to the heat of the cat and backbox. I also wanted to underseal behind the heat shields so they had to come off anyway.
The replacements had a little underseal on them too.
Cleaned them off and removed as much surface rust as I could.
Then treated with some rust killer (which is why they look black/dirty again.
Finally sprayed them with VHT silver before installing back on the car.
No one will ever see them....but I know they are there....I know.
10th Anniversary Edition (1999 NB)
Re: MK2 10th Anniversary - 1999
Chased down a small coolant leak. The cause was the use of an aftermarket gasket on the thermostat cover. When I last changed it I did not add a layer of grease and it started to weap.
While doing this I complete a write up, found here. viewtopic.php?f=38&t=7620
Also got hold of a cheap Lockwood grill. It needed a good clean and polish and a replacement badge (the kind chaps at Lockwood sent me a replacement).
Loving the look on the 10AE.
While doing this I complete a write up, found here. viewtopic.php?f=38&t=7620
Also got hold of a cheap Lockwood grill. It needed a good clean and polish and a replacement badge (the kind chaps at Lockwood sent me a replacement).
Loving the look on the 10AE.
10th Anniversary Edition (1999 NB)
Re: MK2 10th Anniversary - 1999
Time for an update. What have I done this year?
As ever, thanks to M-m for the guidance and tips when needed. Much appreciated.
1) Central locking actuator replacement.
The aftermarket actuator in my drivers door failed. As this was in the winter and my car is off the road over winter I opted to try something different, certainly not taking the easy route, and instead of replacing the aftermarket actuator I got a US passenger side door lock which has the actuator built in and swapped it into my drivers door.
This was simple enough and while doing so I found that the locking spring, common issue, was close to failing so replaced that.
Once installed I was left with one issue though, there is a microswitch on the UK drivers side locking mechanism which triggers the actuator in the passenger side. This did not fit on the imported part so I had to come up with a solution to relocate it. This took some planning but ultimately it worked well and I replaced the OEM switch with a waterproof new switch relocating and mounting it to the solid foam baffle inside the door. This was fixed with a metal plate on the back and the cables were all routed and secured out the way of any other moving parts. I got a real sense of achievement when I completed this. Yes I could have used a ÂŁ10 eBay actuator and replaced the failed part but I had time to kill and the need to fiddle.
2) Completed underseal job.
I already posted about this above.
3) Cleaned up and resprayed top of seatbelt towers.
The plastic on the top of the seatbelt towers was turning grey.
Easy job to remove, clean and spray with Plastikote.
4) Replaced leaking thermostat gasket.
I have already posted about this above.
While doing this I also created a how-to guide for this forum.
viewtopic.php?f=38&t=7620&p=61818&hilit=thermostat#p61818
5) Cleaned up and swapped out cheap aftermarket grill for Lockwood grill.
I have already posted about this above.
6) Fitted 20mm wheel spacers all round.
I wanted to push the OEM wheels out a little. I debated between 25mm and 20mm, both are popular choices. I ordered 20mm spacers from Jazz Performance https://www.jassperformance.com/shop/.
Using coper grease between mating surfaces and on the bolts these were fitted in under 30 minutes.
I really liked the new look but felt that the rear arch gap was more noticeable (see below).
7) Front chassis rails cut out and replaced, replaced front wing and hood re-dyed (keeping with the original blue).
If you have read the earlier posts you will have seen that when I was completing the underseal and cavity wax treatment I found that my chassis rails were blown. Not rusted through and far from needing urgent attention but I decided to get ahead of the rust had them replaced. I also got a new OEM drivers wing painted and fitted at the same time as I also found the bottom of the original wing rusted and needing replacement. Not many pictures of this yet, waiting on the bodyshop to send them.
Just one after picture I took.
8) Fitted MeisterR Sportive coiloves dropping car to 320mm all round.
I picked up a decent set of 1 year old MeisterR Sportive coilovers. The rubber boots on them were quite hard so had worn the paint down at the top. Cleaned this up, rust treated and gave a few coats of Plastikote and then replaced the rubber boots. Ordered direct from MeisterR, the replacement rubbers were of much higher quality and made from softer rubber.
I fitted these over a few evenings following the guide provided by M-m.
viewtopic.php?f=120&t=3485&fbclid=IwAR3nqcJcZfj9FNFFHugZpNy-oRGr2yb_WUH8cIAwuMr_o2vIym9JB8kPZZY
One of the ball joints would not separate no matter how hard I beat on it so I ended up using the long bolt method on one side. This turned out to be just as easy thankfully.
All bolted back up (under load), driven allowing for them to settle and then some slight adjustment brought the height to 320mm all round. I really like the new look and reduced read arch gap especially.
9) Got full Hunter alignment done.
Following the change in height, and having been two years since the alignment was last checked, I got the car checked over. Previously set for 'fast road' I had the alignment checked and tweaked to be similar to the 'Icehawk' setup (https://www.miata.net/garage/align.html ... yiTDq07Vf4)
As ever, thanks to M-m for the guidance and tips when needed. Much appreciated.
1) Central locking actuator replacement.
The aftermarket actuator in my drivers door failed. As this was in the winter and my car is off the road over winter I opted to try something different, certainly not taking the easy route, and instead of replacing the aftermarket actuator I got a US passenger side door lock which has the actuator built in and swapped it into my drivers door.
This was simple enough and while doing so I found that the locking spring, common issue, was close to failing so replaced that.
Once installed I was left with one issue though, there is a microswitch on the UK drivers side locking mechanism which triggers the actuator in the passenger side. This did not fit on the imported part so I had to come up with a solution to relocate it. This took some planning but ultimately it worked well and I replaced the OEM switch with a waterproof new switch relocating and mounting it to the solid foam baffle inside the door. This was fixed with a metal plate on the back and the cables were all routed and secured out the way of any other moving parts. I got a real sense of achievement when I completed this. Yes I could have used a ÂŁ10 eBay actuator and replaced the failed part but I had time to kill and the need to fiddle.
2) Completed underseal job.
I already posted about this above.
3) Cleaned up and resprayed top of seatbelt towers.
The plastic on the top of the seatbelt towers was turning grey.
Easy job to remove, clean and spray with Plastikote.
4) Replaced leaking thermostat gasket.
I have already posted about this above.
While doing this I also created a how-to guide for this forum.
viewtopic.php?f=38&t=7620&p=61818&hilit=thermostat#p61818
5) Cleaned up and swapped out cheap aftermarket grill for Lockwood grill.
I have already posted about this above.
6) Fitted 20mm wheel spacers all round.
I wanted to push the OEM wheels out a little. I debated between 25mm and 20mm, both are popular choices. I ordered 20mm spacers from Jazz Performance https://www.jassperformance.com/shop/.
Using coper grease between mating surfaces and on the bolts these were fitted in under 30 minutes.
I really liked the new look but felt that the rear arch gap was more noticeable (see below).
7) Front chassis rails cut out and replaced, replaced front wing and hood re-dyed (keeping with the original blue).
If you have read the earlier posts you will have seen that when I was completing the underseal and cavity wax treatment I found that my chassis rails were blown. Not rusted through and far from needing urgent attention but I decided to get ahead of the rust had them replaced. I also got a new OEM drivers wing painted and fitted at the same time as I also found the bottom of the original wing rusted and needing replacement. Not many pictures of this yet, waiting on the bodyshop to send them.
Just one after picture I took.
8) Fitted MeisterR Sportive coiloves dropping car to 320mm all round.
I picked up a decent set of 1 year old MeisterR Sportive coilovers. The rubber boots on them were quite hard so had worn the paint down at the top. Cleaned this up, rust treated and gave a few coats of Plastikote and then replaced the rubber boots. Ordered direct from MeisterR, the replacement rubbers were of much higher quality and made from softer rubber.
I fitted these over a few evenings following the guide provided by M-m.
viewtopic.php?f=120&t=3485&fbclid=IwAR3nqcJcZfj9FNFFHugZpNy-oRGr2yb_WUH8cIAwuMr_o2vIym9JB8kPZZY
One of the ball joints would not separate no matter how hard I beat on it so I ended up using the long bolt method on one side. This turned out to be just as easy thankfully.
All bolted back up (under load), driven allowing for them to settle and then some slight adjustment brought the height to 320mm all round. I really like the new look and reduced read arch gap especially.
9) Got full Hunter alignment done.
Following the change in height, and having been two years since the alignment was last checked, I got the car checked over. Previously set for 'fast road' I had the alignment checked and tweaked to be similar to the 'Icehawk' setup (https://www.miata.net/garage/align.html ... yiTDq07Vf4)
10th Anniversary Edition (1999 NB)
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