Tools needed...
1/4 drive ratchet, 10mm socket and extension bar,
Pointed pliers, pliers, or hose clip pliers,
Utility craft knife,
Silicon spray lube,
New hoses, supplied by Autolinkmx5 for this guide.
Should take a hour ,but there are no medals for rushing any job...
********Health and safety warning*********
Please make sure the engine is cold before starting this job, please make sure you drain the cooling system of any coolant before starting any work on the cooling system and depose of in the right way,Please also be very careful using a utility craft knife in confined spaces guys.
A lot of owners when doing this do it wrong by trying to cut corners thinking it will make the job quicker...it does not and will only make it harder and longer as you will struggle in the tight spaces.... more is less in some cases and this is one of them.
These are the second most forgotten hoses because of where they are, the main reason for changing these comes into play more with the Mk 1 1.8 as the CAS O'ring (Cam Angle Sensor) seal can, with age, weep oil onto the back hose making it soft and ready to pop when you least expect it so makes sense to change them when doing a full service i.e.- water pump/cam belt change,rocker seal, CAS O'ring seal (Mk1 NA's only). You should look for either hard brittle hoses, cracking or as above, very soft hoses.
We will assume that you have removed the Air box, coil packs, rocker cover and CAS ready for servicing, if not please shout and we will do a guide to removing the other items....
Remove the locking bracket for the CAS by 1 x 12mm head bolt....
You will also need to remove the windscreen washer bottle (MK 1 1.8 in this guide) by way of the 2 x 10mm head bolts that hold it to the bulk head and move it out of the way for easier excess to the hoses we need to replace.
You might also find access to the loswer hose easier if you remove the air box but you can judge that for yourself once you start.
Grab your pliers and take the hose clips off the two at the bulk head and the one at the the manifold, leave the one at the back of the engine for now, we will come back to that...
Now get the utility craft knife and cut down the length of the hoses on the ones we have removed the hose clips on( please be careful with the knife), don't go to hard with the knife we only want to cut along it, split it and peel them off, the stubs to the heater matrix are thin copper so take care not to damage them, that is why we are doing it this way....
Now to the back hose....
Get your utility craft knife again and cut the hose off at the stub( please be careful with the knife on yourself and any wires)....
So now we can remove the clip from the back with very little in the way....
Wipe the stubs down and spray a little silicon lube on them just to help with fitting up easier....
Now the bit that most forget as they get ahead of themselves....transferring the hose clips over from the old hoses to the new ones onto the back hose first...
Offer up the back hose before fitting to make sure the clips are in the correct position before final fitment....
Now onto the other hose, transfer the hose clips over again from the old one to the new one again and offer it up to make sure the clips are in the correct place before final fitment...
And that's it... done,re- place the windscreen washer bottle and all the other bits when you have finished your service and seals etc.
As normal any questions please just ask, it's what we are here for.
M-m
What you put in, you'll get back ten fold
MK1/2/2.5 replacing the rear engine heater cab hoses
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MK1/2/2.5 replacing the rear engine heater cab hoses
The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ...being rebuilt
Mk 1 Eunos 95 blue G-ltd 1.8...being refurbed
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.
Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ...being rebuilt
Mk 1 Eunos 95 blue G-ltd 1.8...being refurbed
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/
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