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The cure is simply a new or newer roller guide. The MK 1 guide is ok and has lasted nearly 30 years. But they tend to dry out and become brittle and crack into pieces so the solution is to use a MK 2/2.5 NB1/NB2 roller guide ,they are far better made and will out last the roadster. They fit in the same channel as the the MK 1 NA. Some owners that have fitted them say that it did not work and made them worse as in struggling up and down because "its bigger".....absolute rubbish. The NB one has a split, this is to act as a coushiner to stop the rattle and help with a nice tight smoother operation, which it does. and is the same metal run guide in the doors, The problem only happens when they do not clean the s/hand part and fit it incorrect and do not adjust as necessary if needed, which this guide will take you through. It is a simple enough job to do and very satisfying when finished and then forget about it...
Tools needed...
1 x tub of lithium grease ,
1 x tub of copper grease,
1 x tub of rubber grease,
1 x tin of silicon spray,
1 x medium phillips driver,
1 x 1/4 drive ratchet,
1 x 1/4 drive extension,
1 x 1/4 drive 10mm socket,
1 x T30 torx driver/ratchet,
1 x 3/8 drive ratchet, ( only if needed for adjustment)
1 x 8/8 drive 12mm/14mm sockets, ( only if needed for adjustment)
1 x utility knife.
****CLICKING ON THE IMAGES WILL MAKE THEM LARGER FOR BETTER VIEWING****
The MK 2/2.5 roller guide was kindly sent from Autolinkmx5 for this guide and can be purchased at this link.... https://www.autolinkmx5.com/window-glas ... 8845-p.asp
MK 2/2.5 green roller guide on the left and the Mk 1 brown roller guide on the right for reference....
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Step 1... remove the door card.
There are a number of different door cards fitted to the NA's and NB's over the years from 1989 to 2005, and most will also have some kind of personal touch/mod so is not something we can cover with a how to remove them all in this guide. If you are unsure please get in touch and ask, we'll help, with most it is a case of using a medium phillips driver and popping them off.
Door card removed and we can see the broken roller guide, well half of it stuck in the top of the channel, the other half will be in the bottom of the door to be fished out.....
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Step 2....Removing the membrane...
You'll love this if you do it the wrong way getting full of black tacky mess everywhere. This is where the utility knife comes into is own, lightly pull the membrane and cut the sticky seal along as close to the door as possible and it will keep most of it to the membrane nice and neat for re-fitting again and not being pulled apart like string cheese and going every where..
****PICS/Vid to follow****
Step three....Removing the glass from the door...
If you have electric windows....Turn on the ignition to the "on " position but do not start her up,
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Bring the window to around half way to bring the 3 x 10mm head self tapping screws into view, same procedure with the wind up windows,just wind it to the middle.
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Using your 1/4 drive ratchet, extension bar and 10mm socket and undo the window stopper bolts and remove the stoppers...
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Then back with the 1/4 drive and 10mm socket and remove the 3 x self tappers that hols the glass to the window mech...
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Then it is just a case off pulling the glass up and free from the door and lie it down flat safe somewhere while you work on it...
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And fish out the other half of the broken roller guide....
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Step four.... Replacing the guide roller....
You will need a T30 Torx bit to remove the spindle...
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Once removed it is down to your choice to re use the MK 1 spindle or the full MK 2 unit, either way clean the all the items up and the spindle and guide roller , apply rubber grease to the spindle and slide the guide roller back in place and re fit to the door glass making sure the plastic washers go back in place also applying a smear of copper grease to the thread..
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Step five :- Re fitting the glass to the door...
Pop the door lock bar out of its link to help getting fat hands into where we need to go..push it down to pop off the bar and push the rod out ....
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Get your tub of lithium grease and refresh the guide channel with a good helping of the stuff top to bottom, also on the top where the inner cable is exposed, the bottom cog and up the centre also where the inner cable runs the length of the centre lift section , don't be shy with the grease....
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Spray the rubber guide channel from the 1/4 light down to the bottom inside the door....
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Now get the glass and guide/slide it back into place and down into the inner door to the centre lift plate...
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Re sercure the glass to the plate with the 3 x 10mm head self tappers. ( Personally I add a bit of lithuim grease)...
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Re add the window stoppers with the 10mm head bolts and a smear of copper grease, do not tighten them up solid just yet...
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Turn on the ignition for power only and bring the window slowly to where it should stop, this might take a few goes up and down until it is in the correct position( don't forget to turn the ignition off)...
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Once happy tighten up the 10mm bolts on the window stoppers...
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And just as a after thought while it is all still apart....
With the silicon spray, spray the door lock, latch, mech and all plastic rod joints etc, this will make it all work smoother and stop frost attaching to it all in winter, once done pop the rod we popped out back into place and push the locking lug back into place....
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Re add/stick the membrane back into place, and the door card and you are done ,no more rattle, smoother tighter window, smoother locking operation.. and no big bill from a garage....Winner.
Many thanks to Autolinkmx5 for supplying the MK 2/2.5 guide roller....https://www.autolinkmx5.com/window-glas ... 8845-p.asp Enabling this guide to be put together for others to use..
As always any questions please ask ,its what Menders is for..
If you have found this guide useful and saved on garage costs, please help us with a
Many thanks
M-m
