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Brake Stripdown and Rebuild UPDATED WITH PICTURES

Doogledog
Moderator
Posts: 328
Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:07 pm
Location: Forest of Dean

Brake Stripdown and Rebuild UPDATED WITH PICTURES

Postby Doogledog » Fri Mar 09, 2018 6:07 pm

By Doogledog and mazda-mender
WARNING - this is long but if you follow it step-by-step you'll have sorted your brakes :) It's easier than it looks!!

Brake Stripdown and Rebuild....

Once this procedure has been done, there will be no need to remove so much at the next service, just a wipe clean re-grease,re-fit and bleed off which will be 1/4 of the time, and this should save you ÂŁ100's on service costs and re-placing calipers over your ownership.

Safety Precautions
ALWAYS use axle stands to support the car - NEVER work on a car supported by just a jack

If only raising one end of your car ensure the other wheels are appropriately chocked
Do not breathe in or blow brake dust


PLEASE BE AWARE OF THE WARNINGS IN RED FONT
*******WARNINGS*********
To take note of

Tools and other items required
copper grease
red rubber grease
10mm, 14mm, 17mm ring spanners
10mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets and appropriate ratchet
breaker bar
4mm allen key
long-nosed pliers
old screwdriver or similar
flat file and / or wire brush
axle stands
rags
Second person’s foot to help with bleeding up,fresh brews and dead pig butties


FRONT BRAKES

Chock the rear wheels, Loosen wheel nuts and jack up the front of Mx/roadster, and support the Mx/roadster on axle stands (note it is easier if you raise the whole front end rather than just one side)

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Remove road wheel and put on the floor under the middle of the sill under the mx/roadster 

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Depending on which wheel you are working on, turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction i.e. if working on right wheel, turn wheel to the left. This allows more access to the rear of the caliper

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using the breaker bar, crack the caliper lower mounting bolt, remove the bolt and put to one side.

Lever the caliper up and remove the release springs from the calipers as you do this (note if you remove the caliper the springs may fly off, taking the pads with them, which needs to be avoided if the pads are to be re-used). remove the pads.

With the caliper in the raised position, slide the caliper upper mounting bolt. Taking care not to stretch the flexible brake line, put the caliper on the lower wishbone, out of the way for now.

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Using breaker bar and 14mm socket, crack the two bolts securing the brake carrier. Remove and put to one side. Remove the carrier.

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Remove disc if desired (a good idea if you've not looked before, to check condition). Refit disc (or new one)

The carrier should have 4 metal clips on which the pads slide - these need to be removed, making a note of the position and orientation of each one.

Having removed the metal clips, use the file to lightly file the recesses (note it is easiest to file across both at the same time). Alternatively use a wire brush. This will remove the surface rust, which will have built up over time.

Focussing on the hole where the caliper upper mounting bolt goes, use an old screwdriver to clean out any old grease, being careful not to pierce the rubber (note it is easiest to wrap an old rag around the end before beginning). Get out as much of the old grease as possible. Do the same with the hole for the lower bolt.

Using red rubber grease, grease both the upper and lower holes.

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Clean each slide clip to remove as much of the surface rust as possible. This is best done with an old flat-headed screwdriver, or a wire brush . This allows the pads to slide more freely in the carrier.

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Return each slide clip to the carrier, taking care to use copper grease on the back of each to minimize rust build up on the carrier and therefore ensure the pad has as much room to slide as possible.

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Return the carrier to the car, using the same bolts as removed. Ensure you put copper grease on each bolt to prevent them seizing up. Tighten with a 14mm ratchet and use breaker bar / torque wrench to tighten.Use copper grease on the head of the nuts to protect.

No matter whether you are reusing the pads or fitting new ones, take each pad and file the section that fits into the slider clips (the bits that stick up at each end). This is to remove rust build up / paint and will ensure the pads slide freely in the carrier.

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Using copper grease on the filed areas which acts as a lube and also to prevent rust build up leading to a lack of movement, , replace the pads on the carrier. Be sure to use more copper grease on the backs of the pads to prevent squeaks.

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Check the condition of the top slider pin (as attached to the caliper). Wipe with a rag. If rust build up is evident, lightly file / emery paper / wirewool to remove.

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If fitting new pads you will need to push back the piston in the caliper. This is best done using a wind back tool or a G clamp, that can be purchased from ebay (other sources available).

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Slide caliper back onto carrier and into position.

Check release spring condition and slightly pull wider to offer more resistance.

Carefully pivoting up the carrier, return the springs onto the pads. To prevent the pads falling free of the carriers, you need to do this with the caliper slightly holding the tops of the pads.

With springs on place, return the caliper to its usual position.

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Check the condition of the caliper lower mounting bolt. Wipe clean and check for rust build up. If evident, lightly file / emery paper / wire wool to remove, taking care not to flatten.

Smear copper grease around the thread of the bolt and return to the caliper.

Tighten using a rachet and tighten with breaker bar / torque wrench, taking care not to over tighten.

Crack the bleed nipple with a small ratchet (standard size is 8mm but aftermarket sizes may be different) we have had 7mm,8mm(being OE)9mm and even a 10mm?.

Bleed brakes - best done with two people but single-person bleed kits are available

IMPORTANT WARNING
********Foot note:-*******
If you you are bleeding brakes or are changing a caliper on a Mx/roadster that is fitted with the ABS system, you most take care not to get a air lock into the ABS pump, as this will turn into a nightmare to remove the air from it.


Take the opportunity to check general condition of suspension parts, particularly the bushes etc. You may like to spray all rubbers and steering rack gaiter ,bushes with a silicone spray (halfords own is the best we have found, in a yellow tin!).

Job done!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Former owne of Eunos Roadster VR-Ltd comb B - lots of mods
Doogledog
Moderator
Posts: 328
Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:07 pm
Location: Forest of Dean

Re: Brake Stripdown and Rebuild UPDATED WITH PICTURES

Postby Doogledog » Fri Mar 09, 2018 6:12 pm

REAR BRAKES

Chock the front wheels ,loosen wheel nuts and jack up front of car, and support the car on axle stands (note it is easier if you raise the whole rear end rather than just one side)

Remove road wheel and put on the floor under the middle of the sill under the mx/roadster as an extra safety precaution

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Inside the car, remove the plastic cover from the handbrake and release the handbrake. This will reveal the hex shaft through which you can see the handbrake cable. Use a large flat-headed screwdriver to turn this anticlockwise to slacken. Take care not to undo too much or else the cable will drop out of the bottom.

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Back in the wheel arch... With 14mm ring spanner, remove the plug bolt from the rear of the caliper (you should be able to see two bolts at the back - one connects the hand brake, the other is the plug bolt).

Using the 4mm allen key turn the handbrake adjuster on the back of the caliper anticlockwise until it stops. This should pull the piston back in the caliper. You should not use a caliper wind-back tool.

Remove the release springs from the brake pads.

You next need to undo the caliper lower slider pin. This is located behind a black plastic cover, which will need to be removed. This can sometimes prove tricky but is easy enough if you use the long-nosed pliers on it. Place to one side.

Using a 10mm ring spanner, undo the slider pin (this may need a whack with a small hammer). You may be able to get a ratchet in, but the method above is easiest!! Remove pin and place to one side.

Pivot the caliper up and remove. Note this may feel tricky due to the handbrake cable but it will go. Rest on the lower wishbone out of the way, taking care not to stretch the flexible brake hose.

Remove the slide clips from the carrier, noting their orientation. Place to one side.

Remove the carrier using a 14mm ring spanner and a small hammer to crack them. 

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Remove brake disc if desired (good idea to check condition if you've not looked before). Refit brake disc or fit new one.


Using the file, file down the carrier where the slide clips are located. Alternatively use a wire brush. This will remove some of the surface rust.

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Return the carrier to the car, ensuring that the 14mm bolts are coated in copper grease to prevent them seizing. Tighten with ring spanner and hammer (or torque wrench if you can get it in there then all the better).

Working on the caliper, start by looking at the handbrake arm. Check that it moves freely on its pivot under hand pressure. If it does not move freely the first step is to remove the coiled spring from the handbrake arm. This is done using the long-nosed pliers. Once it is removed check for movement. If it is reluctant to do so a few taps with a hammer may release it. This, in combination with penetrating fluid (Plusgas etc.) may free up the arm. If it is stuck solid, it's new caliper time.

Assuming the arm can move, use copper grease to prevent seizing. Refit the coiled spring. Use more copper grease to protect the arm.

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Using an old screwdriver wrapped on a rag, clean the upper and lower holes on the caliper where the slider pins are located. Remove as much old grease and grime as possible.

Using your little finger, put red rubber grease into the upper and lower holes. Take care not to put too much in as doing so will make refitting the caliper difficult.

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smear the piston centre with copper grease and the rubber seal with red rubber grease to prevent it drying out and subsequently splitting. Return the caliper to the lower wishbone nice and safe.

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Clean each slide clip with either a small wire brush or an old flat-headed screwdriver. This will remove any surface rust and enable the pads to slide more freely.

Using copper grease on the back of each clip, refit them to the carrier. The grease will act as a 'glue' and hold the clips in place whilst you prepare the pads.

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***Please note..... any grease or oil's will need to be removed from the surface of the brake disks or pads if any gets on them with brake cleaner or similar***

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Taking each pad in turn, use a file or wire brush to clean the recess where they fit on the carrier. This will remove surface rust.

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Using copper grease in the recess of each pad, refit onto the carrier. Remember to put copper grease on the back of each pad to prevent squeaks.

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Slide the caliper onto the top slider pin and pivot down into position.

Check the condition of the bottom slider pin. Wipe clean. If evidence of surface rust is found, lightly file / emery paper / wire wool to remove - taking care not to flatten.

Refit the bottom slider pin and tighten with 10mm ring spanner and hammer or torque wrench if you can get it to fit!

Pull release spring (M-spring) slightly to widen and refit.

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With the 4mm allen key, adjust the handbrake. Turn clockwise until it stops. Now turn anticlockwise until pad just catch the disc (usually 1/4 to 1/2 a turn but every car is different).

Refit plug bolt with 14mm spanner.

Bleed brakes.....

IMPORTANT WARNING
********Foot note:-*******
If you you are bleeding brakes or are changing a caliper on a Mx/roadster that is fitted with the ABS system, you most take care not to get a air lock into the ABS pump, as this will turn into a nightmare to remove the air from it.


Take opportunity to check condition of suspension components and spray all rubbers with silicone lubricant.

Refit wheel.

Repeat on other side.

Once both sides are down return to inside of car. Pull on handbrake, counting the number of clicks as you go. The number should be between 7 and 9.

If not, turn the hex shaft attached to the handbrake to tighten the slack. Keep repeating until a suitable number of clicks and feel of handbrake is appropriate.

Check wheels are locked with handbrake on and spin freely with handbrake off. Once you're happy, lower car to ground.

Tighten all wheels nuts.

JOB DONE! Congratulate yourself and go for a test drive with a big smile on your face 
Any questions....please feel free to ask
Former owne of Eunos Roadster VR-Ltd comb B - lots of mods

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