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The Roadsters were fitted with the gel Panasonic batteries from the factory. The boot area is not big and a very concealed area for the battery to live in. The gel battery was picked for this reason with it not being a wet cell acid battery to cause fumes and spillage which causes rot .
You do need to look after the Panasonic gel battery as they do discharge easy with not being a big battery but they are the best for the Roadsters although expensive and we understand that not everyone has the budget for a gel type.
They are not perfect and do have pro's and con's we explain both of the batteries we recommend and why, but I must also warn you about the wrong batteries being fitted and incorrect and the aftermath they cause.
WestCo gel batteries, do not waste your money, it is not and never will be on the same par as the Panasonic version....ever. They were produced as a replacement to the OE fitted item and to be cheaper, which is now dearer???, it is a total waste of cash, please don't get one.
Cheap wet cell batteries ÂŁ20-ÂŁ40 etc lion, hellfrauds, etc etc, do not get one and use them ,they are cheap and nasty for a reason and the damage they can cause is bad in the boot area and the battery boot floor etc, we have dealt with the aftermath many many times first hand.
We highly recommend only two batteries for these roadsters. The OE fitted Panasonic or the Bosch S5( S4 also) we understand budgets and running costs but on something this important you need to get the best you can and fit them correct.
Ill fitted loose batteries don't just help to rot the boot area out faster but also dent the wing, cause bad starting and in some cases we have dealt with short out and catch fire, they need to be secured correct and safe.
Pros and cons...
Panasonic....
pros...
Gel battery ,no liquid acid, very long lasting which is major value for money, seen a factory fitted one still on and good after 15 years. These are great batteries and I fully understand the choice in Mazda fitting them as a standard item. I personally feel for a weekend toy on dry summer days, this battery is perfect but only if they are dead standard, as a daily use Roadster with extras added it is just not there and it does loose charge slowly regardless of the alternator doing its stuff which means you do need to recondition it at least twice a year. I personally have one reconditioned on back up for when it starts to get lazy over time to swap out and recondition it again ready for a swap again,simply because she is a daily use girl, which is the reason for this guide, if she was for dry days only, garage queen ,factory box standard then the OE would stay on and switched off until needed.
Cons...
If it runs flat, jump starting does not help re charge( recondition) through the alternator, you need to recondition it ,which means bringing it back to health with a smart charger trickle charger, using a normal charger and the boost charge will kill it.
Cranking amps is enough if no extras are fitted ,but they do discharge easy with dark current drain if left, a battery isolator switch is highly recommended if being stood for long periods of time to save battery life.
It is vented,
It will catch condensation ,which is just a natural process , bottles and tins in the boot etc will do the same, that's why it is sat in a tray or on a battery mat.
Gel battery is more slower in amps at winter time simply because the properties of the gel has changed and going thicker, you will find the battery works better in summer/warmer weather.
They are expensive, people don't see the spend as necessary if a cheap wet cell can be bought and hidden out of the way at a fraction of the cost , which I get " running costs " and " budgets" are high on my list also, but so is the safety and condition of the roadster to spend correct not badly, hence the Bosch battery option...
Bosch...
Pros...
Far far better cranking amps and discharge, it is a wet cell which means it is a liquid acid battery but sealed, they are cheaper by a lot compared to the cost of a Panasonic and value for money is very very good, we still have one on from 8 years ago and still strong.
Charging if needed you can use a standard charger and smart trickle charger, we recommend never to use a boost charge on any battery it kills them, a trickle charge on any is always best.
Same as the Panasonic, we recommend fitting a battery isolator switch for any that are sat for long periods of time to help the charge and the life of the battery,
It is also vented to re-use the OE vent tubes, but a tube adapter to the battery needs to be fitted at the vent holes on either side on the battery.
Cons...
There is some re-working to do so this battery fits correct ,but its all part of owning these that you can chuck a few spanners about and play, it is no biggy as people shout about on the web or think its a major job or hassle, this guide will take you through the conversion process, the guide for the minute is for a MK 1 but I will add the Mk 2/2.5 one also when one comes in for me to take pics etc.
It will also attract condensation naturally ( all batteries do) that's why the tray or battery mat is a must.
Tools needed...
1 x battery( in this case a Bosch S5)
1/4 drive ratchet, extension bar and 10mm socket
1 x 13 mm spanner ( if fitting a isolater switch)
1 x 10 mm spanner (optional)
1 x copper grease
1 x large battery tray or battery mat
1 x large battery top clamp,( or re work your small one?)
1 x J bolt and 10 mm nut ( the old one can be re-used)
**** CLICKING ONTO THE IMAGES WILL ENLARGE THEM FOR BETTER VIEWING IF NEEDED *****
Use your 1/4 drive ,extension and 10mm socket or 10mm spanner and undo the 10 mm nut on the long J bolt and remove the J bolt out of the way until later...
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Undo the 10 mm battery post clamp nut on the positive/live post and disconnect/remove the clamp, we cover the post to be safe if the live clamp is removed first....
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Now being careful not to connect with the live/positive post on the battery remove the top battery clamp by hinging it up and out....
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Lift the battery out of the bottom tray and pull towards you to be able to disconnect the vent tubes and undo the earth/negative post clamp and disconnect it and also removing the battery from the inner wing out and clear of the boot safe...
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Remove the bottom tray...
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Use a 1/4 drive ratchet,extension and 10mm socket and remove the L shaped bracket held in place by two 10mm head bolts and undo and remove the two 10mm head bolts that hold the bracket for the J bolt clamp with the ....
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Locate the bolt holes for the relocation of the battery tray bracket , they are covered by a fibre tape, spray with a 'ease it oil' first and pre-tighten down the 10 mm head bolts with the 1/4 drive ratchet,extension and 10 mm socket , there will be years of crud in there and the bolts might be a tad reluctant to bolt down, slowly back and forth is the key until all the way down to clean the threads, remove the bolts again, jump on the opportunity and clean the whole area, add copper grease to all the bolt holes the old bracket holes and the new holes we will be using to the J bolt bracket bolt ...
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Using the 1/4 drive,extension and 10mm socket re locate the battery clamp bracket to the new place and bolt down tight, now this is important to, re bolt the J bolt bracket back in place "BUT" turn it around and then bolt it back down in place...
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Old bolt hole rear...
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Old bolt hole front...
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You have two options that we recommend, get hold of the large MK 1 battery tray and clamp, the J bolt can still be re-used Or get a battery mat the large battery clamp or re work the old one but you will need to cut and extend it, so a friendly person with a welder comes in handy, the J bolt can still be used, we use both options.
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Insert your tube adapters to the vent points on the battery on either side, you can get some universal ones off the Bay of E etc for pennies, but just think out of the box as I used a sanitizer/gel/cream push dispenser pump tube, and just cut them down to fit about 3/4 of an inch...
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In this case we are going with a large battery tray and a reworked short clamp extended/welded with also a negative isolator switch fitted, so put the battery into the boot and in this case clamp down the isolator switch on to the negative battery post using a 13 mm spanner and push on the vent tubes before sliding the battery in place, but normally it would be the negative clamp with a 10 mm , but we do recommend fitting an isolator switch...Leave the cover on the positive post until you are ready to clamp to it....
Isolator negative cut out battery switch link:-..... viewtopic.php?f=40&t=6627
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Fit the battery clamp and J bolt and 10 mm nut( we add a big penny washer also) to secure the battery down solid with the 1/4 drive ratchet and 10mm socket , leave the positive post cover on while you mess with clamping down so you do not short to earth...
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Now re-move the positive post cover and clamp up the positive/live clamp nice and tight with the 1/4 drive ratchet, extension and 10 mm socket, turn on the negative isolator and check power is running through the Roadster....
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And that's it in and done, switch it off when required, carpet battery cover back and boot back together again.
Fitting one into a MK 2/2.5 instructions will follow very soon...
Any questions please ask ,its what we are here for, if you have found this useful please help us to keep this forum open with a donation to help with running costs
