What you put in, you'll get back ten fold
********Have a great summer everyone, lets see these builds everyone has been beavering away with in this madness with time on your hands, show us where you have been now that you have been let free,If your stuck or unsure , please ask no matter how big or small, we do not ridicule on here.
The mazdamenders team

Dash removal - UPDATED 01/03/2017

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Dash removal - UPDATED 01/03/2017

Postby Mazda Mender » Sat Dec 08, 2012 9:36 pm

Mk2 dash into a Mk1


If you're looking to update the interior of your mk1, probably one of the best ways to do this is to replace the mk1 dashboard with a mk2 unit. Whilst it may seem like a big job, it's actually fairly easy for anyone who can wield a screwdriver and a spanner, to swap the unit. It's a half day job to swap the units over but you will need to leave longer for the additional wiring requirements including wiring into the mk2 hazard switch and rerouting the headlight service button.

It's a job best done on a warm day when you can have the roof down and the doors open outside - the more space the better for this job.

This is a long write-up but please stick with it - it's long because I have tried to include all the little bits of detail to enable anyone who can identify the tools to do this job.

Tools and Other items Required
Medium-sized Phillips screwdriver (the one that fits everything else)
14mm socket
12mm socket
10mm socket
Ratchet for the above (I like the 1/2 for the 14mm and 3/8 for the 12mm and 10mm but that's just me)
10mm open ended spanner
Trim tool
Radio removal tools (if applicable)
Torx keys
Drill and bits
Utility knife

Step 1: Remove the centre console
First thing to do is remove the centre console.Start by removing the two screws (one either side of the gearbox tunnel).
DSC00320.jpg (439.97 KiB) Viewed 1931 times

Then remove the ashtray / cupholder and remove the screw beneath
DSC00321.jpg (317.64 KiB) Viewed 1931 times

Lift the arm rest and remove the two screws contained within
DSC00322.jpg (268.35 KiB) Viewed 1931 times

Remove the gearknob (standard roadster gearknob should just unscrew anticlockwise)
DSC00323.jpg (254.94 KiB) Viewed 1931 times

Lift the centre console slightly. Underneath, on the Driver's side, you should see a small electrical connection for the ashtray light - unclip this.
DSC00324.jpg (502.49 KiB) Viewed 1931 times

Where applicable, you should also see the electric window switch wiring block. Undo this (it has a clip on one side that needs depressing to release.
DSC00325.jpg (309.49 KiB) Viewed 1931 times

You can now remove the centre console.
In preparation for removing the daqshboard and loom, disconnect the electrical plug on the handbrake at this point (it's easily forgotten if left til later).
DSC02520.jpg (515.6 KiB) Viewed 1931 times

Step 2: Radio Surround Removal
Next Step is to remove the radio surround. Depending on how your stereo is fitted (if applicable) you either need to remove this before or after you remove the surround. One our project car, the radio has already been removed.

First step is to remove the heater vents - there are two methods for this, we use a long sturdy screwdriver and lever them out. Alternatively, you can feed a piece of string so it loops out again and pull on both ends to pull out.
DSC00326.jpg (337.91 KiB) Viewed 1931 times

DSC00327.jpg (332.42 KiB) Viewed 1931 times

Where you have removed the vents, there should be a single screw to the top of each vent hole. Remove these with your phillips screwdriver.
DSC00328.jpg (318.27 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

Also, at the bottom of the surround, to the left (passenger side), there is another single Phillips screw - remove this also.
DSC00329.jpg (286.71 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

Pull the radio surround forward slightly and reach behind to unplug the hazard warning / headlight service switch. You should now be able to remove the radio surround.
DSC00330.jpg (380.01 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

To make dashboard removal easier, remove the small metal bracket to which the centre console is screwed. This is held in with 2 phillips screws
DSC00363.jpg (396.05 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

bracker removed:
DSC00365.jpg (385.91 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

Step 3: Removal of Trim / instruments
Moving to the driver's side, remove the panel from underneath the steering wheel. This is held in with two phillips screws.

DSC00331.jpg (290.75 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

DSC00332.jpg (348.28 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

Next remove the steering wheel cowling. This is held in with 4 screws - 3 standard trim screws and 1 shorter brass coloured screw.

DSC00333-1.jpg (353.58 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

Once you have removed the 4 screws the cowling should come loose and should split in two - a top and bottom section. Remove both sections and put to one side. You will reuse these with the mk2 dash.

Next is the instrument cowling - this is held in with 2 phillips-headed screws - one on either side of the steering wheel on the underside of the cowling.

DSC00334-1.jpg (185.05 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

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DSC00335.jpg (241.94 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

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Once the screws have been removed, grab hold of the cowling at either side, and pull sharply toward you. It should now unclip.
DSC00337.jpg (354.99 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

You can then maneuverer the cowling out, revealing the instrument cluster.
This is held in with 4 more phillips-headed screws - one in each corner. Remove these.
DSC00338-1.jpg (318.67 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

DSC00339-1.jpg (321.33 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

Once the screws are removed, pull the instrument cluster forward slightly and unclip each of the electrical connectors that plug into the instrument cluster. You will also need to disconnect the speedo cable. Two options to do this - either hold the instrument cluster at either end and pull towards the steering wheel with a quick jerk. Alternatively, if you can, reach behind the instrument cluster and unclip it (I find this difficult unless someone with small hands is around).

DSC00340-1.jpg (265.13 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

Step 4: Heater control removal
You've almost stripped everything off the dash, ready to undo and remove. The biggest tasks left to do is to remove the heater controls. This is held in with 4 screws - 2 either side of the heater controls (they should be obvious but here are two pictures to help).

DSC00352-1.jpg (327.63 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

DSC00353-1.jpg (345.98 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

And two with the screws removed

DSC00354-1.jpg (336.19 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

DSC00355-1.jpg (314.32 KiB) Viewed 1929 times

Now you will need to disconnect the manual control cables where they connect to the heater system (not from the heater control panel). There are three cables - the easiest two are located either side of the heater matrix (centre of the car) and are accessed via the two footwells.
Driver's side:

DSC00358.jpg (331.29 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

They simply pull off the lever and unclip

DSC00359-1.jpg (471.34 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

Passenger side:

DSC00360-1.jpg (258.8 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

DSC00361.jpg (284.26 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

The remaining one is located behind the glovebox, up in the far left. You really will need to get your head into the glovebox area but it is fairly easy to find:

DSC00357.jpg (208.65 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

Once the cables are released the heater control panel should pull forward, out of the dash. Once it is slightly out of the dash, reach behind it and disconnect the electrical connections:

DSC00362.jpg (290.5 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

You can now pull the heather controls out (taking care they don't snag on anything and bend the heater control wires.

Step 5: Windscreen trim removal
In order to remove the windscreen surround you first need to disconnect the sunvisors. These are held on with two phillips screws. Remove these and place somewhere safe (the glovebox is usually a good option).

DSC00346-1.jpg (286.81 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

You'll also need to remove the roof catches from the windscreen surround. These should be held on with two star-shaped bolts - you can get these out with an allen key but it is better if you have the correct tools.

DSC00347.jpg (403 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

Once the sunvisors and roof catches are removed, you need to remove the windscreen rubber seal. Start at one side and pull if off around the windscreen. It should have a small black or white plastic stud holding it in place to the side of the windscreen near the top (these are be difficult to find!). You remove these with a trim tool or carefully with a flat screwdriver. Be careful not to pull the trim over the stud, leaving them in place as you risk splitting the trim and a water leak later!

Once the seal is removed, remove the rear view mirror / interior light (depending on year), unclip the plastic panels, starting with the one along the top. These should just unclip but be careful not to break them.

DSC00348.jpg (411.42 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

You should now have everything removed from that dashboard that is necessary. Now time to remove the dash itself...

Step 5: Dashboard removal
In order to remove the dashboard now, there are 9 bolts to remove. These are located as followed:
1 in the middle of the dash board, under the small square cover near the windscreen
2 on each end of the dashboard behind blank plates that are visible when the doors are open
2 on either side of the the middle of the dash, where the radio and heater live (again, behind the blank plates - sometimes used for additional interior lighting).

You also need to disconnect the bonnet pull from the dashboard and the steering column (you can leave the steering wheel on) as well as undo a few electrical connections.

In order to access all the dash bolts, you need to remove 7 blank plates. To remove, you can use either a small screwdriver (be careful not to scratch the dashboard), a thin trim removal tool or you may find they can be popped out with your hands.

pic of driver's side end blank plate location

DSC00341.jpg (229.64 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

pic of driver's side central blank plate location

DSC00342.jpg (466.24 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

pic of all 6 long blank plates removed

DSC00343-1.jpg (411.4 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

central blank plate (on top of dash near windscreen) to be removed

DSC02500.jpg (361.98 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

central blank plate (on top of dash near windscreen) removed

DSC02502.jpg (334.31 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

To remove the bolt you will need a 10mm open spanner (you can try a swan neck spanner but they don't always fit). Undo the bolt and set to one side.

driver's side blank plates removed

DSC00344.jpg (246.92 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

To remove the bolts use a 10mm socket.

driver's side central blank plate removed

DSC00345-1.jpg (436.52 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

To remove the bolts use a 14mm socket.

The bonnet release is held on with a nut on the underside of the dash (at the back of the pull). Undo the nut, twist the bonnet pull and slide it towards the floor - it should now be hanging freely:

DSC00349-2.jpg (254.45 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

To remove the dash you will also need to disconnect the sterring column from the dashboard. To do this, remove the 2 12mm bolts (one either side of the sterring wheel) - they are long bolts so they take a while.

DSC02503.jpg (320.85 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

To give an extra bit of room (it all counts when it comes to getting the dash out!) you also should slacken (but not remove) the two 12mm bolts which hold the steering column in place on the bulkhead. To locate these follow the sterring column down to the bulk head. You should be able to get to both of these with a 12mm socket and a couple of extension bars.

DSC02505.jpg (316.4 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

This should give you a drop on the steering column like this

DSC02506.jpg (389.9 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

Once this is all done you need to unplug some wiring. Disconnect the blocks underneath the steering column.

DSC02507.jpg (293.96 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

you only need to undo these ones!

DSC02508.jpg (364.84 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

Moving to the passenger side, unplug the wiring from the heater matrix

DSC02509.jpg (321.06 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

You also need to undo these connectors:

DSC02511.jpg (296.83 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

DSC02513.jpg (216.36 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

Once all this is done the dash should be ready for removal. Obviously if you have additional aftermarket kit fitted you'll need to ensure this is all removed first!

There is no exact science to removing the dash once at this stage. In general it is easiest to pull it forward slightly and roll it forward at the same time as the brackets on the gearbox tunnel (where you undid the screws behind the blank plates have ridges for the dash to sit in. Once over these you should be able to pull the dash out (normally easiest to head out the passenger door area).

This should leave you with something looking like this...

DSC02516.jpg (431.15 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

and this...

DSC02517.jpg (423.25 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

and this...

DSC02518.jpg (419.56 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

and this...

DSC02519.jpg (422.74 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

DSC01659.jpg (156.17 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

While you have the dash out ,jump on opportunity and and remove the trunking clips if fitted with A/C, clean them up and stick on new foam seal and re-fit to the trunking as i can guarantee the old seal will be dry and past it's best, so you will not be getting the best from the heater.

DSC02514-2.jpg (328.75 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

DSC02515-2.jpg (391.32 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

In order to fit the mk 2 dash you need to transfer the mk1 loom over onto the back of the mk2 dash. To keep it simple, lie each dash face down (on something soft to prevent scratches and dents). Remove the loom from the mk1 dash, lay it out on the mk 2 dash and wire tie it securely in place (you can't just transfer it over on all the clips as they are in different places on the two dashboards).

****DO NOT THROW THE MK2/2.5 DASH LOOM AWAY...you will be needing most of the plugs from that loom to retro fit to the MK 1 loom later*****

When doing this you'll need to take care to reroute any wiring you will be connecting in a different place. For example, the hazard wiring need to go in a similar place on both dashboards but you'll need to consider a location and switch for the headlight service/raise switch (I put mine next to the cigarette lighter on the mk2 on a 3 pole switch, later changed with the raise switch from the MK 1( guide on here) into the blank of the Mk 2 dash for the electric mirrors, which i feel looks a lot neater..

MK 1 loom attached to the back of the MK 2 dash with good old cable ties...Please make a special note of where the earths are connected and that they are tight and in place ...

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IMG_20190219_093725.jpg (603.5 KiB) Viewed 1513 times

Now before fitting the MK 2 dash there are a couple of things that are needed to be done, one being the Mk 1 instrument cluster fitting to mk 2 dash...

Offer the cluster up to the dash and mark where the speedo drive cable will need to run and connect as the MK 2/2.5 is an electric driven speedo...

Please be careful if using a utility knife and drill on this cluster and around yourself, things can easily slip with to much pressure, slow a steady is the key, no medals for rushing...

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Then cut it out, we used a drill and a utility knife/file to shape....

IMG_20190219_105057.jpg (506.19 KiB) Viewed 1513 times

IMG_20190219_105311.jpg (461.5 KiB) Viewed 1513 times

Next you need to remove the MK 2/2.5 bottom instrument cluster location pins, we used a utility knife and then made smooth...

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IMG_20190219_111543.jpg (306.43 KiB) Viewed 1513 times

Next is a slight trim up of the location/bolt down lugs at the bottom on the back of the cluster, we used a utility knife and file...

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IMG_20190219_111941.jpg (359.13 KiB) Viewed 1513 times

Now with the the drill or file( please be careful) we now need to elongate the screw down holes on the bottom plastic securing lugs so the MK 2/2,5 screw holes line up ...


IMG_20190219_112316.jpg (492.67 KiB) Viewed 1513 times

After, everything fits lovely....

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You'll also need to think about how you are going to connect the various switches now (HOW-TO ON THIS WILL FOLLOW).....

Once the loom is transferred over and secured you can maneuver the mk2 dash into the mk1. At this stage, install the dash and finger tighten done the various bolts which secure the dash (one on top of the dash near the windscreen, 2 at each end of the dash and 2 either side of the radio / heater section. These should fit straight in. Reconnect all the electrics you undid from either end of the dash and try starting the car. If it starts, all is well and proceed to reinstall everything else. If it doesn't (or it seems to run differently to how it did before you removed the dash, check all the plugs / earths are reconnected (it's easier to remove the dash again now if you need to than once you've installed everything and think you are ready to start her up and drive off into the sunset!).

*****Go to section two*****

DSC01660.jpg (117.53 KiB) Viewed 1925 times

By mazda-mender and mazda-mender Jnr
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Mazda Mender
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Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:18 pm
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Re: Dash removal - UPDATED 10/09/2017

Postby Mazda Mender » Tue Mar 05, 2019 7:36 am


Install and wiring converting.....


You must re use these plugs off the MK 2 dash loom....

Electric mirror plug ( for the raise switch if reusing the mk 1 conversion switch)
Cig lighter plug
Heater control panel plug
Electric window plug, from the mk2 car loom
Hazard switch,plug and loom

All switch plugs and switches as you will be winging what is and whats not needed as you go for personal usage...

Please note I am leaving the OE MK 1 plugs in place for any possible future use further down the line??its a personal thing... you do not need to do this and these have been added on here and shared so you have a reference for joining which wires to what regardless, I highly recommend disconnecting the battery while doing the soldering and joining up....


Connecting(re routing ) the MK 1 fuse box to the MK 2/2.5 dash.....

While the dash is out undolt the fuse box from the side wall bracket...

IMG_20190221_100610.jpg (615.69 KiB) Viewed 1507 times

Because when the MK 2/2.5 dash is in you can fit the Mk 1 fuse box to the MK 2/2.5 dash bracket which will make changing a fuse in a Mk1 sooooooo much easier as i am sure many will understand that have had to get into unreal positions to do....

Now there is an hook lug on the MK 2/2.5 fuse box bracket that does need to be removed for the MK 1 fuse box to fit, it would be easier to do while the dash is out, but personal choice....

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IMG_20190221_110408.jpg (440.41 KiB) Viewed 1507 times

I personally feel it looks better and far functional to use...
Connecting (re routing) the cig lighter.....

Another thing which will need doing is extending the cig lighter loom and plug, with the MK 2/2.5 plug and loom you have removed from the dash, depending on your chioce, if you are cutting off the MK 1 plug and soldering in and extension ,which will be far easier to do while the dash is out of the roadster,( we highly recommend soldering in if you go this route to make good solid connections, not snap clips or crimps joins)personally I do not like or want to remove any of the MK 1 OE plugs, just incase we ever decide to swap it all back to standard as good MK 1's are becoming harder to find, because I was extending I used female spade end connections to plug into the MK 1 plug for the extended patch lead, made sure it was all tight and used electrical tape to make sure it will not move and protected...

IMG_20190219_113311.jpg (344.84 KiB) Viewed 1507 times

IMG_20190219_113315.jpg (397.55 KiB) Viewed 1507 times

Then just route it to the correct part of the dash, securing with a cable tie if needed, it is better to have the extension a little to long than to short.

Hazard switch...
This is also easier done out of the roadster, as connecting up can be fiddly in the tight area...

Now as I have mentioned, I do not want to remove the OE Mk 1 plugs for possible future use, so I am adding in and to, you can remove the plugs and solder straight in .....

So MK 2/2.5 hazard switch to the MK 1 loom,you will need the plug and some loom...

IMG_20190222_135354.jpg (539.61 KiB) Viewed 1503 times

So we'll need to join this...

IMG_20190222_135401.jpg (299.5 KiB) Viewed 1503 times

To this....

IMG_20190222_135345.jpg (376.69 KiB) Viewed 1503 times

Like so....

IMG_20190222_140204.jpg (422.62 KiB) Viewed 1503 times

Mk 2/2.5..................MK 1
Red/Black chaser........Red/Black chaser
Gray/Red chaser.........Red

Wiring diagram.........

IMG_20190304_215347.jpg (445.45 KiB) Viewed 1514 times

Connecting up the heater panel control...
This is also easier to added the new MK 2 plug while out of the roadster...

The MK 2/2.5 Heater panel plug and loom,Prepping to fit, you do not need to add connections, as mentioned it is a personal thing, you can cut out and re solder the new plug straight in....

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Illumination plug is separate on the MK 1 NA loom to the MK 2/2.5, so we'll join this first, I am joining with female spade connectors, but as mentioned this is a personal thing and you do not need to do this, you can remove the plug and solder them up solid...

MK 1 loom plug...

IMG_20190222_135302.jpg (424.13 KiB) Viewed 1503 times

Mk 2/2.5 Plug wires.....................MK 1 loom
Red/Black chaser....................Red/Black chaser
Gray/Red chaser.....................Red

So now onto the Heater panel plug....

Wiring diagram....
***To be added***

Connecting the Heated rear window switch on the heater panel...


Connecting the A/C switch on the MK 2/2.5 heater panel...


Connection the head light raise switch, using the MK 1 conversion switch mod.......

This is worth doing as it looks far neater ,does not look out of place and useing the correct switch ...

IMG_20190222_135430.jpg (346.51 KiB) Viewed 1504 times

Link on how to make this....


We are using the Mk 2/2.5 electric mirror plug and loom as it is the same plug as the MK 1 dual hazard and raise switch and only using 5 of the wires, so this is what we have....

IMG_20190222_135442.jpg (448.31 KiB) Viewed 1503 times

This is them joined and ready for soldering in solid to the MK 1 dash loom...

IMG_20190302_122928.jpg (407.53 KiB) Viewed 1504 times

Mk2/2.5 plug wires............................Mk1 loom
Brown to........................................Red with Blue chaser

Brown with Yellow chaser to........Red with green chaser

Brown with black chaser to............Red with Yellow chaser

The MK 2/2.5 electric mirror plug to the MK 1 switch mod.....

IMG_20190302_123012.jpg (302.37 KiB) Viewed 1504 times

IMG_20190302_123019.jpg (317.08 KiB) Viewed 1504 times

The illumination will also be soldered in for the switch to light up...

Mk2/2.5 plug wires...........................Mk1 loom

Green with Black chaser to..........Red with Black chaser

Gray with Red chaser to................Red

Wiring diagram....

IMG_20190304_215328.jpg (449.38 KiB) Viewed 1514 times


Refreshing the heater/AC trunking seals etc while the dash is out( highly recommended to do now)....

The sponge seal on these seals drys out and detearierates over the years resulting in the air for the cab escaping before reaching the heater matrix for the cab resulting in weak heat or none, the easiest way to test this is to put the heater on full blast number 4 and on to the windscreen, put your hand into the passenger side foot well ,if you feel a lot of cold air when she is at running temp, chances are the seals are shot and need sorting,

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You can re use the seal frames, there are two of them... just remove whats left of the seal, and re stick fresh stuff on and just re fit them...

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And re fitted...

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Wiring diagrams...more to follow...

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The Disclaimer:-
This post is a natural product made from recycled electrons. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects, the articles/answers/comments are provided for information purposes and they are not intended to substitute informed professional advice, I or mazdamenders.net cannot personally be hold responsible for any damage occurred from following this procedure or any injuries from it. Proceed at your own risk.

Mk 1 Eunos 93 black V.S II 1.8 ,
Mk 2 .1/4 Roadster 99 black & gold V.S 1.8 being rebuilt,
Mk 1 Eunos 90 1.6 (claimed by daughter)
MK 2.1/4 Blue V.S Roadster 1.8 99 ...being rebuilt

http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/ http://miata.net/ http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/

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