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You will need ...
1 x tin of penetrating oil,( because we live in the UK)
1 x tin of silicon lube spray,
1 x pot/tube of copper grease,( for re build),
1 x medium phillips head turner outer,
1 x medium flat turner outer,
1 x 1/4 drive ratchet,
1 x 1/4 drive medium extension,
1 x 1/4 drive 10 mm socket
1 x 1/2 drive ratchet,
1 x 1/2 drive 14 mm socket,
1 x 1/2 drive 12 mm socket ( only if also removing the rear tie down eyes),
1 x 14 mm ring spanner,
1 x 14 mm ratchet spanner,
1 x small tray to store all the nuts ,screws etc in,
1 x jack,
2 x wheel chocks,
2 x axle stands,
1 x wheel brace/torque wrench/breaker bar with a 21 mm socket ( if standard nuts) ,
1 times safety specs, you will need them from the years of crap that will want to fall into you mouth,eyes,ears,nose,hair etc,
1 x pair of latex gloves.
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So park her up on flat ground where ever possible, chock the front wheels , crack the rear wheel nuts with your 21 mm socket and what ever you are are using for leverage and lift the rear of the roadster, letting her rest onto the axle stands on either side , try and get her as high as you can, have someone help if needed.
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Once in the air and safe, get your 21 mm socket with what ever you are using and remove both wheels as this will make things just a little bit easier.
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Get the 1/4 drive ratchet,extension and 10 mm socket and undo and remove the 3 x 10 mm head self tappers from the rear arch finisher trim and store it somewhere safe and then do the same on the other side...
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Next get the medium phillips turner outer and remove the phillips head screw holding the bumper edge to the rear of the rear wing and do the same on the other side..
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Again with the phillips driver remove the phillips head self tapper on the bottom that holds the bumper to the bottom of the rear inner arch, same on the other side...
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Now we turn our attention to the underneath, also remembering the fact that we are in the UK not the good old US of A where most of the vids are shot for you tube and are on mainly clean ,dry and rust free examples. Well we are not so lucky, so welcome to the real world: get your goggles on because crap will 100% fall on you. Thanks to the age of our cars and the salt on the roads - our cure for winters here.
Now personally for this I do recommend dropping the exhaust off its rubber hangers to help with the tight spaces as the bolts will be tight and they will not play nice in the upper nuts confined spaces you are going to need to deal with. You can leave it connected to the cat or de-cat but just add a bit of support. If you can remove it though, then its even better to ease the struggle ahead. You can leave it all on but it will be fiddly and a swear jar will be needed close by.
To drop it off its rubber exhaust hangers, push the flat head driver through where the hanger goes through and separate a little so you are able to spray some of the silicon lube in and work around the hanger, be it in on the zorst side or body work and it should slide off with a push; if need be, use the driver as a lever to start it off.
Spray the 8 x 14 mm nuts and threads with the penetrating oil and start with the top most ones on both sides first using the 1/2 drive ratchet and 14 mm socket to get the initial start (sometimes a 3/8 breaker bar is needed for the first crack). There will not be much of a turn on the nuts because of where they live so you can use the ratchet, 14 mm spanner or ratchet spanner, whichever works best in the tight places. If they become tight on removal, spray with more oil and tighten back up and continue this process until all are off. There are no points for rushing and snapping studs; remove them all and put them safe....
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Now undo and remove the ones on the bottom with what ever 14 mm tool you find works for you best - don't be shy with the penetrating oil if needed - and remove them all and put them safe....
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So you are done and ready to remove the bumper as a whole, push down on one side and outwards where the screw held the bumper to the rear of the wing as it locates into the fitting that the screw fastens into that holds it in place. Do the same on the other side...
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Then it is just a case of getting hold of the rear bumper and pull to free it from the rear of the roadster.....
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And thats it. Fitting is the same as removal, only in reverse, don't forget to re- build with copper slip as it is forward thinking for the next time you may need to remove it and this time there will be no struggle or hassle.
Drive safe: any questions please feel free to ask - its what we are here for.
M-m
