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The easiest way to tell it is missing is the signs above plus you will not feel a slight resistance when rodding/cleaning the drainage tubes from the drainage trays down to the floor.
If they are doing your head in then this is the safest way to replace them so that it does reconnect back on without a massive struggle to align into place. They are originally fitted already connected to the drainage trays at the factory and fitted from above in one unit while there is no roof in place.
Now there is a difference between the MK 1 NA 1989 > 1997 and the MK 2/2.5 NB 1998 > 2005 drainage trays and tubes, more on that later at the bottom of this walk through..
You will need..
A garage or flat ground on a dry day
2 x new drainage tubes
1 x long rod
1 x silicon spray or rubber grease
2 x wheel wedges
2 or 1 axle stand
***OPTIONAL***
1 x 1/4 drive ratchet
1 x 1/4 drive 10mm
1 x 1/4 drive extension bar
So lets get her onto some flat ground, Wedge the front wheels and jack up the rear of the roadster, the OE jack that comes with the roadster will do the job and then lower her onto a axle stand, DO NOT EVER WORK UNDER A CAR WHEN ONLY SUPPORTED BY A JACK ONLY, ALWAYS SUPPORT ON AXLE STAND/RAMPS AND WEDGED ON FLAT GROUND...
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***OPTIONAL***
Now you do not need to do this but is can make things easier...removing the plastic guard by way of the 4 x 10 mm head bolts and the rear wheel, but not essential...
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If you are only working on a one side at a time then we are good to start....
Now get your rod, find the drainage tray and feed it down the drainage tube, secure the rod in place in the cab in which ever way you find that works, if you have a whip type aerial fitted that will do the job, i am using a flexible plastic tube which i bent on it self to lock it in place on the seat belt section..
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Now we need to get under the roadster, as you go under to the front most section of the rear arch/sill are, now onto your back look back on yourself onto the inner wall of the car and you will see the end of the drainage tube with the rod end also sticking out through the rubber grommet in the body work....
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Now we need to firstly remove the rubber grommet and put it somewhere safe as we will be reusing it...
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Now we need to remove the drainage tube, now it is hit and mis just how stuck in place they will be but a 20 year old roadster might be stuck fast like this one, twist and pull back and fourth until it breaks its grip so you can pull it out and free from the roadster, "do not" pull the guide rod out that needs to stay in place....
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Now get your newer drainage tube,spray some silicon lube spray or red rubber grease on the inner connecting end and feed it up the rod you have left in place as a guide, it may take a couple of wiggling about until it pushes on solid, you will feel it connect and lock on into place...
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Now you need to refit the rubber grommet....
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Now it is just a case of pulling the guide rod back out from the drainage tray and move onto the other side if needed and follow the same procedure..
And thats it your all done, get her back on floor and get her used..
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Now just for reference there are 3 different types of drainage tubes through the Mk 1 NA to the Mk 2.5 NB and 2 types of drainage trays..
The Mk1 NA 1989 to 1997 had a flap at the bottom with a small V shape cut out on it...
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The Mk 2 NB and into the version of the Mk 2.5 NB 1998 to around 2003 had a flap at the bottom exit which was star shaped...
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****PICS*****
The Mk 2.5 NB from 2003 to 2005 had a valve around 3/4 of the way down and was fitted by way of the tube being split and taped together, this was the best designed drainage tube....
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The drainage tray in Mk1 NA 1989 to 1997 was a clean smooth plastic tray...
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The drainage tray in Mk 2/2.5 NB 1998 to 2005 had raised plastic smooth spikes around the drainage hole which was to stop large items going down the hole...
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As the norm, if you have any questions, please just ask, it's what we are here for..
M-m
